Firstfives.org

I got a rebuild at Portland Drive line. The cat and exhaust system cook the original u joint bearings The rebuild includes much more robust ball bearings and a full re-balance On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 12:57 AM, oceancab <joshquach> wrote: I've been looking online and from what I saw, remanufactured s...

I've been looking online and from what I saw, remanufactured shaft prices seem to be around 500 bucks?

Also wondering what specifically I should be searching for, like part number and interchangeability and models that I can try to salvage from

I'm kind of in the same boat, with a very minor vibration from 20-30 mph, but don't really want to shell out for a new driveshaft, would it be okay to continue driving it as it is and just accept it?

If your ignition cables are 30 years old, the cable going from the coil to the distributor might be grounding against the airbox or hood, giving you weak or no spark.

Actually, the vibration happens at 25-30 mph no matter which gear I'm in.

I took a look at the guibo and it looks new. Is there a way to check the center bearings without having to remove the driveshaft?

I was mistaken, it's only noticeable in 3rd gear. The vibration is all around, I can feel it through the steering wheel too, but really the whole chassis has a slight shake to it. The previous owner took the exhaust system from a 6 series. The vibration started after I did a donut in a parking lot >_<

The vibration goes away once you get out of that range, I'm inclined to think it's either the engine or transmission because this happens no matter which gear I'm in.

Ah well, turns out that he HT wire was grounding against the air box, causing there to be no spark.

The distributor wire still crackles though, and it have me a good jolt when I touched it...

Where's a good place to get a good cheap set of plug and HT wires?

Well...the alternator's new. The engine just seems to die by itself after it's idled for a couple minutes, after which it stops starting. I'm confident that there is no spark, and the coil only reads 4 volts with the key in the on position. Not quite sure where to go from here, the car started after...

Yesterday I decided to test out my alternator, so i connected my voltmeter to the battery with the car running and turned on everything. Shortly after, the voltage dropped to about 12.9 from 13.7 and the car died. When I tried to start it back up again, it wouldnt start. The engine just cranks and c...

It is aluminum

I do have a torque wrench, but i was tightening it with a crescent wrench to just a whole turn past hand tight.

The cam timing's still spot on... I'll check the valves again tomorrow, I'll bet I slightly pushed down some of the valves into the combustion chamber as I lifted the rockers up to do the clearances. would a .10 clearance on the cam side be a safe number? And...one of my valve cover bolts snapped wh...

Hmm, I did roll it backwards in 4th...I set all the valves to .009 on the cam side. I guess it has to be the cam timing then. Is it possible to just loosen the tensioner and just turn the cam sprocket under the chain enough to set it right? My haynes book doesn't cover this subject very well. Sorry ...

This site's been a great resource to me as a lurker since I bought my e12 back in June. But now I've got a problem with my car. About a week ago, I adjusted all my valves using cam/rocker measurements. I didn't want to take off my fan clutch to get to the crankshaft, and my street is on a hill, so I...