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Sadly not. The end link grommets/rubber rings are in service-able shape, but the bushings were completely gone so the bar likes to clang. I'm not sure what the impact of running the car without a front swaybar is, so I've been holding off on driving it until that's resolved.

Believe you me, when I ...

Awesome suggestions! Thanks. I'll order both and see what happens! Thanks for the help researching!

And yes, the receipt is from Dinan (81 Pioneer Way, Mountain View, CA) from the late 80's (1986/87).

I'll update the post here if these are/aren't a match to help anyone else (and myself) in the ...

I have a 1976 530i that's been sitting since the mid '90's so I'm going through and refreshing all the rubber bits, among other things. I have the receipts from the original owner which show it has a 25mm front and 19mm adjustable rear, Dinan sway bars. The stock OEM "rubber rings" (31351125712) are ...

They must have? Here's what I ordered from Steve and verified it's a 23mm: 31351118393 It's item #2 on the link, but item #3 with the 3 size designations, is actually the bracket that holds the bushing in place.

If you have a micrometer, it'd be a quick way of determining what size your sway-bar is ...

I think it's 20mm+. The rear appears to have been 16mm stock, but as I found out when I went to put on the rear bushings, I don't have a stock rear sway bar. I had to drill out the bushing in order to make it fit. I tried the fronts to see if they'd fit on the rear and they were too big. They might ...

Bumping thread. I'm into the same thing now. I'd originally followed the FAQ and did 2200 RPM with the "ball", but found another thread on here that said 1800 RPM. Now I've found this one. Here's the background:

- At 2200 RPM I saw the "ball". And timed it to that. The car felt fine, but didn't ...

Have you checked the e24 manual? It's my understanding they're close: http://www.malloc.nl/BMW/635CSi/pages/en/index.html

Could be wrong, but if nothing else, it's another link for you. Good luck!

I had a similar no-start issue that was caused by the ignition resistor. Part # is 12141360676. Its an easy thing to at least cross off the list. The wires running to mine were corroded. I cleaned them up, put them back on the resistor and the car fired right up. Prior to that, it would just turn ...

Thought this might help http://www.malloc.nl/BMW/635CSi/pages/e ... l#refertoc, but not sure. Been watching your progress on the thread over on mye28. Nice progress!

Have you tried Blunttech? Their website almost always says "Not available" on the e12 parts I've searched for, so I always just email them directly (sales@blunttech.com). They've never let me down.

I'm not sure that its any different on the e12, but I did it on the e28 and it wasn't all bad. A bit rough to get the bolts re-threaded, but some patience and ratcheting spanners/wrenches should be all you need.

Sorry, please clarify. The head bolts are just under the valve cover & gasket, so is that what you're referencing? The task of tightening them down is super easy since you just remove the valve cover and then use a torque wrench on the 14 larger size bolts in the pattern I list above. I found the ...

I checked it again yesterday evening and there was hardly any oil, significantly less even than when I posted the question and bumped the thread. So the tightening appears to be a success! Thank you for the response!

Bumping thread. I own the car now and it still has this issue. In doing some research prior to posting, I came across a few threads that indicated that the head bolts may not be tight enough. So today, I took the valve cover off and with a torque wrench, followed the pattern of:

Firewall Top: 14 10 ...