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I'd give the epoxy a try. My favorite is JB Weld. The stuff is amazing. You may need to build a little jig to hold the stud where you want it or get one of those little alligator clip holders on a weighted base they use for precision soldering. Any other epoxy is likely to fail. Clean surfaces!

Try the distributor trick. You will be surprised at how gummed up the 2 plates likely are. I don't lubricate with anything but a dry lube, oil holds dust.

Try moving the plate toward the vacuum dashpot with a screwdriver to see how difficult it is to move.

My favorite is a Dow Corning Molybdenum Disulphide spray called 321. I've used it on over a dozen engine builds on all metal to metal surfaces like cams, cranks, rollers, dryer drum roller shafts, etc. I even sprayed the cylinders on an Opel GT motor I built. It was a leftover monster from the 70's ...

Having overhauled a few of these over the years I find a complete removal of the cables a worthwhile project. Take everything apart, clean, polish and lubricate. I like DOW Corning Moly dry assembly lube for this. Grease is sticky and holds dirt.

It just made sense that the switches or what they were connected to was the problem from the way you described it. Now about the chicken dinner...

I think he means the generator light. Mine changes with engine speed.

Ahh, but it does serve a purpose. It placates BAR inspectors who don't care if it works.

Hey Dirk,

I got thinking about the switches, you may have one lead from each switch mixed up, not both leads to each switch. You might want to see about tracking them back to the connector to see which one is which and verify they are both on the correct switch.

I have a 69 Mercedes 280SE and it was not running well. I pulled the distributor and removed the advance plate. Be careful doing this, dont break the copper connector, clean it well with carb cleaner. Separate the 2 parts and put dry Moly on them. Now that they slide freely on each other the car run...

Actually the water temp sensor is the circuit that leans the mixture as it warms up. More resistance when cold means more fuel is given. That is how I got it to pass. Regarding the cat, that cannot be the problem because the HC levels were very low. Low HC = lean which means it is burning hotter and...

Mine does the same thing, it dims with increased engine RPM's. Not sure what it means, I don't drive the car enough to really care at this point.

Kroil makes stubborn pistons come out better than any other product I have used. I split the calipers and grab the end of the piston with the vise just enough to enable the piston to be rotated back & forth in its bore. If it takes too much force, add Kroil and let it sit for a while. Always add...

Or take the bulb out of the indicator. I turned mine into a 'check engine' light when I did my conversion. Ca says it has to be there if the later model engine came with it. Glad I didnt put in an OBD-II conversion.

Pieces of the driveshaft could work. A good driveline welder can put it together and balance it for you. 265 has a proper speedo output on it.

Ok, so this basically tells me my engine is running lean. The water temp sensor is fine and I got it to pass with cobbling in a 50 ohm resistor. Where else can I look to adjust the mixture to richen it up a bit with everything apparently sealed on these cars?