Firstfives.org

Like kohler said, replace the guibo. When it wears out it will send vibration all up and down the drive line. First time I had one go bad, I thought the whole drive shaft was coming out of the car (actually, that is what's happening). It was a really bad shaking/hammering and could easily explain ev...

Your description sounds like you have mic'd the cylinder bores in all cylinders and found that #6 is worn more than the others. You really want all cylinders to be the same size, so either step up to a complete rebuild with oversize pistons or go shopping for a short block that's not worn. Sorry for...

Somewhere (like BMP??) I saw stiffeners for the sub frame bushings--basically poly inserts into the open spaces in the bushings. I didn't try them so I can't comment on their effect. Also see how the subframe bushings are braced in the fore and aft direction by that piece that runs forward to the fl...

When I did mine I did not split the caliper halves -- no moving parts, nothing to wear out. If it doesn't leak, don't mess with it. The rebuild kit was set that way -- only had seals and dust boots for the pistons.

it's been several years, but I recall that on my car that support on the oil pickup tube fit one of the rod main cap bolts. I was just overjoyed that the pickup tube fit the new oil pump cuz BMW did make some running improvements over the years. I'm sure the e12 oil pickup attached to the new engine...

I did that on my car and it helped -- heavy wire from alternator case to engine block to battery ground.

[snip] Re-enforced the diff with factory fix. Also used old engine mount for second tranny mount. It's in a pulling position so it didn't need to be anything expensive. Everything else is urethane. More on the project later in the week when the car goes back together... I hope. Jeff you might also ...

As mike said, it doesn't take much to stop one wheel if you're running an open diff--just a little drag on one brake will do it. You can turn each wheel by hand to see if you can hear or feel that click as it turns over.

I used Repco/Axxis deluxe pads and they worked well for street/autocross. And I used Mintex pads on the track--no fade even when my son and I shared the car so it did double duty. Just did my wife's car and the shop recommended Akebono. But I think I must be exceptionally easy on brakes when I hear ...

I've rebuilt brake calipers. There's nothing tricky about it except to get it all really clean before reassembly. then wipe a little brake fluid onto the rubber parts to lube them as you slide them on. then tugging the outer rubber boot on is tough cuz you can't get a grip on the slippery thing...

I run my car with a little extra advance by setting the timing at 1700-1800rpm instead of 2200. That gives strong throttle response and pulls all the way to the rev limiter. Like you said, as you add advance the idle speed increases. But a second adjustment--bring the idle speed back down then reset...

What's IIRC. 5K is 5000, so my 2300 to 2600,(copper core printed on wires), is within limits. Except 2300 higher than zero. Another problem is their individual, not in a tube. Switch out to an old style tube carrier will require pulling the distributor ends. Sounds like those wires are good. My car...

For that funky hose to the aux air valve, you need the BMW part. I got a replacement from local indie.

For some others that are plain hoses, like vacuum lines, you can probably find the right size at any basic auto parts store.

BMEP=Big Mama in East Prussia

....unless you want to get technical.

alotawatts wrote:Differential to lift....near subframe mounts for jackstands on each side

ditto