Firstfives.org

Great read, had the same issue last summer but it was going into storage, figured tackle this when things dry up soon. But I have to say: your Rials look AMAZING!

sorry for late response, z-rod is a high zinc oil, Zinc is good for lubrication of older engines. I'm pretty sure I'm using 15w50, I'll double check it when I stop by storage tomorrow...

cheers

I've used it on all my cars since the early nineties, one of them was a 93 Toyota hilux with 3.0 V6. I sold that truck to a friend in 1999 with 145,000 miles, and last year, with 366,xxx miles, we replaced it with a Toyota V8 conversion. The 3.0 was taken apart and resealed but main, rod, rings and ...

I just did my axles at 45ft lbs.. officially its 42-48 ... great manual

The Brake fluid was flushed? I've seen new calipers seize from contamination in the fluid. Like excessive water or other oils. If you take apart the calipers check if the piston seals swelled up...

franky2fingaz....do you know "joey walnuts"? :lol: Haha! yeah "franky2fingaz" is what I'm using because "hilux30" got "invalidated" by for some odd reason.. I guess it's staying I never watched the show, but liked the characters.. But, as far as the nut, you ...

How high does the compressor's psi go up to? I'm starting to rebuild the rear with new bearings and 150psi pressure was not good enough. I was lucky that there was a 3/4" Impact for commercial truck wheels that I used, but had to mess with the tank so go up to 175-200psi to power the wider hose...

have you looked at the harness itself? did you test with harness connection right after ECU...?

ECU does need RPM signal from ignition to operate.. if that helps

L-jet pdf:

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/ljet/jetronic.pdf

exactly.. as Qwodracer said ... pull the fuses out one by one. The funny thing is, old bimmers you can just put that meter on and work very quickly. The much newer (and less desirable) crap you have to wait 30 minutes or more for things to go to sleep (modules).. like this X5 4.8 in the shop with mo...

cool thanks, the only euro parts needed are fenders which I already have... I don't believe front and rear clips are Euro specific, but I'll check into that..

I've checked into BavAuto, has couple things i need but I'll call them for the rest...

cheers

Hey folks, I was looking through RealOEM to dig out numbers for body parts, taking the numbers and google search them sends me to many international sites with prices.. is there a dealer in the states or supplier that one can purchase through? I do not want to deal with Toronto BMW dealers, not very...

I'm assuming the shop checked and cleaned the head right? either intake valve not closing fully or timing chain off few too many teeth.. . if one or two valves not seating you can kinda feel it on the individual intake runners or by using a stethoscope .... cheers

Can you elaborate more: 1. Lumpy meaning almost stalling out or shaky? 2. Idle at starting cold vs. warmed up? 3. you Just bought it, head was recently done or while back? 4. When revved it smooths out or remains shaky? so many possibilities between ignition, fuel, timing etc.. If the head is an 85 ...

Very interested in that, only issue sending it back if any of the welds are off..

What's the budget?