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simple things? fuel pump fuse making solid contact?

update. got the car running well. the method i used to index the distributor...i took off the valve cover and parked the car on my sloped driveway in 5th gear and had a friend let it roll forward while i watched the cam to find TDC on cyl 1...seemed like the easiest way to spin the motor, being that...

i was being an idiot and i removed the distributor without marking the position of the rotor and now i'm lost. i tried cranking the motor to TDC and pointing the rotor at the cyl #1 mark on the dist, but no fire. help a dummy please!!!

thank you, but i'm aware of the basics. i am hoping for something more specific to E12s with L-Jet.

my 79 528i has a slight misfire at idle causing it to have high HC (260ppm, max allowed is 220)

car otherwise has a steady idle, good cap n rotor/wires.

just looking for some ideas of where i should start.

i cleaned mine with some simple green and a soft brush, then a very (very very) light mist coat of Wurth silver wheel paint. looks bright and new.

eh, sorry guys. its a '79 528i manual trans.

i scored a new AFM on ebay, plus i had an extra used one. switching between all three and no change in the symptoms but it runs best with the new one.

yes, the car is timed properly and all possible vac leaks are accounted for...AFM is grounded. idle/wot switches adjusted.

this is an intermittent problem. the car is capable of running really well.

tell me more about the AC compensation valve.

help me, this car is very close to being scrapped. i'm out of ideas. the car will start, idle fine, and drive for a few minutes and then it will choke, buck, sputter and lose all power, but it wont die out, it will still idle. but if i give any gas it chokes. i thought i had it narrowed down to a ba...

and rolling the fenders is completely out of the question.

ok, so...of course, the screw broke, even after pb blaster and heat from a torch. but i was able to use a file to flatten the sides of the screw so i could get a good grip on it with some vicegrips. i got it to turn and eventually got it out. i chased the threads, cleaned every thing up and re-insta...

is the bleeder different than any old 8mm bolt?

i'm worried about the condition of the bleeder screw. its in rough shape, looks like its been stuck before. why would BMW spec a slotted screw for this part? seems stupid. i'll hit it with some torch heat before i try to open it.

thanks for the replies, guys. yeah, its pretty much what i was thinking. now, if i can just get that bleeder screw to budge (its the slotted style) without breaking it. i'm letting it sit overnight after hitting it with some pb blaster. wish me luck. the good news is that replacing the the thermo ti...

i just replaced my thermo time switch. i didn't drain the coolant, i just plugged the hole with my thumb and then threaded the new thermo time switch in. then i just topped up the coolant in the bottle. i went for a test drive and noticed a higher than normal water temp on the gauge. when i shut her...