Firstfives.org

Charcoal does absorb until it is saturated and becomes pretty much worthless, which is after four or five years. There is no maintenance given, because bmw (or any other auto manufacturer) doesn't expect you to keep your car longer than it's effectiveness, let alone thirty-plus years. It's just a ca...

Where did you get your bushings? They shouldn't have flanges or raised areas on both sides, or you have the wrong bushings. The flat side obviously goes on the cup washer side, raised side on the bar side. There should be plenty of threads on the bolt to get the nuts on, or something is wrong.

As a public service announcement, I must broadcast: Driveshaft ends, both front and rear, are balanced independently. Combining one front with a rear from a different chassis won't affect balance. The only thing to make sure of is to join them by lining up the U-joints, bearing cup to bearing cup, b...

Your completely right, my apologies. Im installing aftermarket 4 in 1 gauge it does rpm, oil pressure, oil temp and water temp . The water temp and rpm i understand. My problem is with oil temp and pressure, the gauge came with the sending units but im not sure where i need to put them. I assumed t...

You need to be more specific about what "electronic gauges" you're using. If you aren't using the gauges that came in the car, then you would need senders that match the gauges.

PatinaBeforePolish wrote:Thank you gentlemen. Does the tensioner nut have a seal and can the seal be replaced by simply removing the nut?

a big aluminum crush washer. When you loosen the nut, use a wrench in one hand and a catchers mit in the other.

Any pitfalls or unique processes to removing the upper timing case to reseal it? Looks pretty straightforward in the repair manual. The water pump and thermostat are already off, looks like remove the valve cover and distributor then the timing cover. I'm assuming the large nut on the face of the c...

Consult the FAQ.

Red Line MTL might just mean the end of your gear clusters. I do not recommend it for reasons told to me years back by Steve Dinan. Some of us have good luck with it, for a while. It all has to do with maintaining the shear angle on your gears. You change the fluid from hypoid dope and suddenly you...

Mine is definitely a 1980, I can see just empty bolt holes on the body of the car up where the bracket should be, I may be temporarily hard mounting it to the body of the car, as long as it doesn't cause any linkage to bind. The console is the part that is connected to the trans at front and that t...

Just to be clear, there's nothing in an AFM that would short a circuit and do the damage that you describe. The PO did a lot worse than change the AFM. Look at the harness again and trace where the damage is, then don't do whatever the PO did. Yes, it's that easy.

triiodide wrote: As far as I can tell #s 14, 15, and 16 are all gone and I'm having difficulty figuring out how it is supposed to mount up.

What year is your car? Only '80 and later had a rear mount. Anything earlier used the front mount only. Pretty unlikely that a whole mount would just disappear.

Unfortunately you need to spend the money and buy the early therm cover. The later cover will angle the radiator hose to the wrong angle. And yes the earlier water sensor housing with fewer ports is nla now. Just use plugs, the ones you pictured. The later fan is good and bad, The later clutch doesn...

My local dealer just quoted me $680, two weeks coming from Germany.

Pretty much zero chance that there will be one available new outside of the EU, and at considerable expense. You're better off having yours repaired, or getting a good one from a later car, either e12 or e28, and having the filler neck moved to match the rear filling '76 style tank.