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Set the timing with the VA disconnected. I then use a Mighty-Vac to suck down the VA can to see what the total advance is. IIRC, it's about 12°, for a total of 48° under full vacuum. You also want to assure that your idle vacuum is more than the vacuum required to pull the VA can all in, otherwise y...

The vacuum advance is in effect as long as there is vacuum. At 80 mph I have about 14"hg of vacuum, so my vacuum advance is still all in. No, that's not how it works. It doesn't work off manifold vacuum, it works off of ported throttle body vacuum. The vacuum retard port is just past the butte...

Whatever floats your boat....

What do the directions say about dual Webers on an '88 long block with a 3.0Cs distributor with the VA all in by 12"hg using the points to fire an MSD6-T ignition?

The first thing you want to do is establish the TDC point, I did this by rotating the engine until the TDC mark came up in the little hole in the bellhousing. I then bolted a tab to the block ( I used one from a Ford rear end ) and bent it so it was close to the balancer. I made a mark on it and con...

I get about 20 mpg on the highway with dual 32/36 Webers.

The vacuum advance is in effect as long as there is vacuum. At 80 mph I have about 14"hg of vacuum, so my vacuum advance is still all in. I set the timing for maximum advance of the distributor, when the springs in the advance mechanism have reached their limit. Most distributors are all in by ...

http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x412/onovakind67/BMW/S7300107_zps9302e543.jpg I set the timing on my carbureted B35 motor to 36° BTDC at 3500 rpm. Being an old Chevy guy I am used to seeing the timing mark on the balancer, much easier than looking in some hole for a BB flying by at 80 mph. The ...

Unless you are an unusually attractive female I won't bare with you... As for camshafts in four stroke engines, they turn at half the crankshaft speed. The 272 relates to the duration in crankshaft degrees that the cam holds the valve more than a specified distance off the seat. Methods of displayin...

I'm putting a Q-jet on my m30b35. I have the Solex carb and manifold and about 15 Q-jets, so it's a no brainer for me. The first and most obvious modification is the mounting bolt pattern. You have to redrill two of the holes in the Q-jet base to get it to mount right, but there's plenty of metal th...

I got some E12 struts and brakes from the local boneyard and installed them in my Bavaria. I get larger vented brakes and the lower spring perch is 1/2" lower than the Bav, so it drops the front end 1/2". The only hitch was the m48 threads on the strut and the m50 threads on my Bilstein Sp...

Hylomar is great stuff. I used it on some road race engines I built a few years ago. We were using a crankcase vacuum pump on these motors, and Hylomar is very effective at this type of sealing. It also is easy to disassemble the parts.

I recently put an M30B35 long block in my Bavaria, and the adapter nut #11311284801 was necessary because the later cam does not have a slot milled in it to accept the early distributor drive.

The first 10 pages are general instructions including the maximum torque for the various sizes of bolts.

here's a 136 page booklet of BMW torque values:

http://www.bmw-m.net/TechData/torq/bmw_torq.pdf

There are basically two mounting styles for the GM CS130's, one has 180° opposed mounting holes, and the other is roughly 120°. You want the 120° one that comes on many 90's FWD cars. I've got a Pick-n-Pull about 5 miles from my house, so I just browse through the cars until I find one that looks go...