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I would suspect the hazard switch. Either disassemble it (scour the FAQ) and sort out the electrical paths inside, or easier, swap a known good switch. Check the wiring from the switch, there are many connections. The Germans were good at continuing an electrical path from a device to power another ...

A good thing to do is freshen the contacts of the connector at the bottom of the ICU.
A bad design encouraging moisture/condensation/water to collect inviting electrical failure.

Congrats. You get a gold star on you forehead for the day!

See my post on the 'fuel scavaging' thread . . .

Swap with a known functioning one.

Start simple first - Clean the ICU connector; inspect/change HT wires, especially the center one to the coil . . .

Count your blessings. And don't fix what ain't broken! Yes, the complete release of the handbrake can trick you, since those highly efficient and astute Germans engineered two systems into the same warning light. :shock: But address that leaky master cyl. before you have potentially more problems. O...

I usually use .010 trying to trick myself into thinking I'm getting another .001HP, but I think having them all the same is the most important part. +1 on having them even. I try to trick myself into believing I get a smoother idle with what I call a 'tight .012' where the feeler won't pass. Probab...

Make sure your main pump is correctly wired. The in tank will not produce enough pressure to run the system.

High RPM bogging can be attributed to component breakdown inside the ICU (ignition control unit - on the right side fender in the engine bay).

The one in the upper left corner of the cluster #$%*? The one notoriously guilty of indicating every brake circuit wiring failure by lighting except when the pad sensors actually are worn enough to ground the circuit and light the light?! The brake warning light system is fraught with possibilities ...

So im guessing my car does have a 'pump' in the tank. Likely, but your complaint is more likely due to the fine mesh screen that needs periodic cleaning if you do have the in-tank pump. Classic condition of noise from a fuel level below half tank. Clean the screen before you toast the pump. And pla...

It is seam sealer.

I watched my body guy as he replaced the front clip. He used seam sealer for the joint. Then he 'melted' the stuff with lacquer thinner and his finger/rag to form a smooth transition between the two pieces.
Very slick.

Depending on its age, you likely need a new radiator.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/i/y/2.png Nos. 2 & 3. Also a good reason they may be missing is the mount they attach to way up by the subframe could be missing/broken as well. It was just welded onto the body. Or, the PO could have ditched the whole thing. :x But it's important as the abov...

What happens if the lower throttle body plug isn't there ?, both ends not connected ? Vacuum leak ? No vacuum retard ? I.e., what's the big deal if all the distributors look exactly the same, have two vacuum tubes, top and bottom of the diaphram ? 1 - Vacuum leak and no retard since the tube is not...

'Older' E12s, i.e., 530i models had a smaller capacity A/C system, Google the story of the BMW reps who were in Dallas in the 70s and forced to ride in the Texas heat in a black sedan with the window switches deactivated by the dealer to prove the point to the engineers that the A/C system was inade...

+1

Reread my posts about this from years ago. I suggested you check/evaluate the vacuum advance mechanism on the dizzy and told you how to do it.
Best of luck.