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Anyone using one with opinions? BavAuto used to sell ones I think made by Malpassi. Bosch also makes some, but I haven't sorted out all the P/Ns; stock mounting at the 528i fuel rail location probably also gets to be trickier; best bet there is likely an adapter.

The chassis harness and engine harness come together with separate plugs at the combination relay, so that seems like a good place to look.

It's light on pictures, but this FAQ gets close to the subject as there's a slight
difference between late 528i and the 530i at the combo relay.

Robert

That raised boss region where #8 (stud) is going is basically a legacy in the casting for mounting a mechanical fuel pump on the early M30s. If that hole is blind (does not penetrate cyl head wall), you could just leave it. Otherwise, use a short bolt and seal it up. Our cyl head FAQ might say a lit...

Yeah, no doubt the 265 was on some of the early E24s. I ran across a nice general FAQ on the E9 site: http://www.e9coupe.com/tech/5speed/prep.html Back in the day, other BMWs used to come to FF for information. I guess the tables have turned. We're scratching out maybe a post a day when we're busy?

Post bump. I replaced the front input seal again on the Getrag 265 last summer. That was good for about 2000 miles and the Redline MTL drip is back. From a conversation with an ex-BMW mechanic on this, he stressed the importance of using an anaerobic sealant and slightly shortening the tension sprin...

Advantages of a bigger alternator include things like your headlights no longer dimming when the A/C compressor kicks in. Looks like this is no longer FAQ material, but it was a common thread way back in the day when Peter Florance was a regular: http://www.firstfives.org/wwwboard/messages/74022.htm...

BumbleBeeTuna wrote:but what is the advantage to the e28 alternator? more voltage or just longerlastering?

More current capacity is the advantage. The e28 unit is 80 amp (90 amp can be done with a few more changes). The e12 unit was 55 amp.

Does anyone know the part number for the trick 3-connection hose that connects the air slide valve, throttle body, and AC air compensation valve. Robert Bondi has a FAQ on making a replacement for the hose, but I would like to find a replacement. Perhaps wishful thinking :) I looked at the one at B...

I finished this project back in the spring, but it took a while to organize and upload the pics. The pictures capture several electrical system upgrades: upgrading from 55A 530i alternator to 80A E28 alternator, installation of new 12V cabling from the battery positive terminal, and installation of ...

1980 L-jet system, rough idle problem with cold start warm-up. When the engine is cold it will initially start and idle fine for the first 15 seconds of the cycle. Then it will drop the idle from 1000 rpm to 500 - 700 rpm and not idle well. have to open throttle to keep it running. As the engine wa...

Can anybody help me out my M535i isn't getting fuel bought another fuel pump for it and still nothing. Any ideas Is any fuel available at start? Between the cold start valve and injectors, you should smell fuel in the intake after a start attempt. IS the fuel pump energized? Turn the key to the 2nd...

In scouring other threads it seems that E12's mostly had the high speed fan relay "hidden in front of the battery" and the low speed fan relay snapped onto the fusebox. Well, I have two relays snapped onto the fusebox (can't tell which is the low speed fan relay from the wire colors) and ...

I usually use a power bleeder, but I have found that something about the master cylinder design does seem to require a little old-fashioned bleeding with a friend at the peddle to get all the air out. Maybe it's that extra chamber as you mentioned that might get bypassed with a power bleed.

Anyone ever add one to a 530i? Local independent BMW mechanic swears by the prepump to fix mysterious hot starting issues at altitude (vapor lock). I'm 99.9% certain the 77 530i doesn't have one, although realoem has "from 8/76" on most all the fuel tank associated items to further confuse...

I just did this a couple months ago. I'll throw in another vote for doable w/o removing the subframe. I'm almost positive that the tool kit Heyco wrench with fairly thin wall was critical. I may have started it with the open end. It's certainly a tight fit there. If the bolt was just a little longer...