Firstfives.org

On my car I had: M30B28 double zenith made in 1976 M30B35 (?), a 3.5 litre engine from a 1987 735i, motronic 1.3. - the 2.8 revs more quickly, or at least it gave me tat impression, it feels more playful. - the 3.5 has more torque starting from low rpms. With the 3.64 diff I can run 4th gear (1:1) i...

My head(ache) story is over here:
http://www.firstfives.org/bboard/viewto ... highlight=

I also posted on facebook, here:

The heads used for cars with the 4a1 carb are different, but I am not sure if the volume is smaller. I my case, I noticed that the shape of the combustion chamber of such a head was mirrored, and the head interfered with my pistons because of that. You can experiment with pistons though. There are d...

On the 528 w/o I, I had about 12 - 13MPG, some less during winter.

RPM measurement is electric.

I know the later 2002 had the (black) wire in place even when delivered w/o tachometer. If not, you need to pull a wire from the negative side of the ignition coil to the tachometer to get it to work. Not a difficult task.

There should be a second wire from the starter engine to the coil + (mine has, but is carburetted). You might disconnect it from the starter engine and connect it some switched 12V source, perhaps something related to the injection that might be at hand. Or just pull an extra wire between coil and a...

Some replies on T.Hanson's glove box latch topic disappeared as well. I recently installed a booster, but there was no plate or other part in between the booster and the black tunnel on the chassis. But some PO had their hands on those parts before, so I can't say if it should be that way or not. An...

The coil has no constant voltage on it. Even though you can measure between + and ground (car body eg.), that will not give you a trustworthy result because there is no current draw in the coil while the car is not running (assuming you have electronic ignition). And when the car is running, there w...

It should be easy to see if there is a piston on TDC and a valve open on a certain cylinder. The head will not even settle on the block when you put it in position.

I bought a new one two years ago.

Could it not be a throttle linkage problem?
As in, the action of opening is way to fast in the first part of opening the butterfly?
There is a number of rods and mechanisms things in there. Or is it cable?

I just remembered that there was an older topic with some distributor info. There is some difference in between max advance, as well as RPM for max advance, and advance on certain reference RPM, but nothing that will do any engine damage I believe. http://www.firstfives.org/bboard/viewtopic.php?p=13...

Yes, but if you move the double vacuum dizzy in a advance only car and do not connect the retard line, I think things should be ok at least for some testing - no disaster will occur.

I suppose you can just swap in the '79 dizzy and not connect the retard. That should make it fairly happy. Connecting the retard will change timing at idle. That would be a second thing to test, if the little red cap is easy to remove.