Firstfives.org

You can replace the eccentrics if they have flats. I set mine at .008-.009 inches on the cam side, and once I've done the whole engine I check each one again. I'd rather spend a few bucks and replace the eccentrics that are starting to flat, than have to adjust them again within 6 months because a n...

On my '79, those two external to the fuse box relays are for the high and low speed operation of the radiator-mounted aux fan. I forget which is which, but simple circuit, one is triggered by the 90C temp sensor in the radiator and the AC compressor, and the other one runs from the 99C temp sensor. ...

Okay thanks, I'll add just a little bit of additional threadlocker, just to be on the safe side.

Hey guys, I have a question about the bolts for the flywheel on my 260/6 project. The book says to apply threadlocker, but the OEM bolts arrived with yellow stuff which I assume is threadlocker, so can I use them as is without adding anything? Simple question I guess, but I've never done this before...

I'm not 100% on all the wiring, but I can tell you red/black is a bypass supply line to the ignition coil, to supply full 12v when starting to bypass the coil resistor for a better spark (normally it gets 9v via the resistors). The black/yellow I assume is the starter trigger to the starter motor, g...

My Jules Verne sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. I'd like to replace it with the electronic version, but not at $300+ for a new one (or a questionable used one). I'm going to try and replace it with a bimetallic strip idle air valve from an 80s Japanese car, as they can be had for $30-40 on ebay a...

I don't know if it's right, but my red-top coil reads 0.6 ohms and car runs fine. I can tell you those coils run at 8v or so normally, and 12v for starting. That's all the ballast resistor does, keeps it at ~8v or so, bypassed to 12v during cranking for a better spark. So for troubleshooting you cou...

Thanks Ron, I will look you up if I hit trouble. I'm trying to avoid removing the reservoir from the car, the brake line nuts don't have a lot of life left in them, so I'll see if I can cut it while in place. I worried with a Dremel that particles would go back into the fluid, so a knife sounds more...

I've seen ignition modules with aftermarket circuit boards in them, when you get yours open it up and look inside. That might be what this one is - same case and plug just modern circuit.
That or they've had it in stock forever and just want to get rid of them.

Where to cut was actually going to my next question, I want to make sure the hole is big enough to let enough fluid through without cutting back too far. There really isn't much space there for a separate reservoir which I was considering as well. I did buy a genuine BMW clutch supply hose, 3ft whic...

Thank you, I was thinking Dremel (too much dust) or pliers which might cause the brittle plastic to crack. I will try cutting with a blade.

Sorry if this has been covered before - I'm converting from auto to manual, how have people hooked up their clutch master cylinder? Is there a good method to cut open the crimped supply side on the brake master cylinder reservoir without breaking it? https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3938/33180151992_90...

No probs, try FCP Euro, they've always come through for me and had obscure parts available when the others haven't.

This is a bit of a backyard hack, but in these scenarios I've taken parts to the hardware store, found a bolt that fits the thread, then trim to size with bolt cutters. They're just metric plugs with corrosion protection, so you could check in on it after 6 months. I will need to replace my housing ...

RonDwyer wrote:I have all those parts you can swap in to try if it can be driven here.

Thank you Ron, I might take you up on that once I've narrowed down what I suspect is broken. As to whether it can be driven, well currently it only has 1st and 3rd gear, but it's fine on the freeway once you get going!