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If you want the aux fan to come on near midpoint on the temp gauge, you actually need the 82C version of that same switch. I've calibrated midpoint on the T gauge to be about 80C. The 82C switch part number might be in my cooling system FAQ. If not, I've sourced it through places like BavAuto or BMP...

The only thing that valve really does for you is adjust the idle speed when cold. The more that valve is open at cold start, the higher the idle speed will be. I'd fix your warm idle first. If you pinch off the hose coming out of that valve and going to the manifold when the car is warm, you'll elim...

Hello. what other parts than a gearbox do i need to convert from 4 speed manual to 5 speed getrag 260 on a 1975 525? and how to put in speedo drive? Different driveshafts on 4 and 5 speed? Yeah, definitely a different (shorter) driveshaft needed for the 5 speed. I didn't need to change my speedo, b...

I think you'd want to make sure that it's really running that hot or if it is an issue with the sensor. There are a lot of subtle way to get tripped up. One non-obvious one is that there are at least two different versions of the thermostat (aside from the temperature spec) that seem to correspond t...

I did the entire front end 3-4 years ago. I believe you're forced to buy the entire front control arm with bushing these days. FWIW, the only front end pieces I couldn't separate on my own were the press fits between the control arms and the steering arm levers. The weird curvature of those steering...

A follow-up on this thread..... I essentially fixed the problem, although the reason for all the initial problems still really isn't clear. I simply bought another new left caliper. I spent some additional time bench testing the new caliper. I pulled off the boots, lubricated the piston lateral surf...

canada karl wrote:Couldn't find the torque value in the manual. Anyone know what it should be?

My factory manual shows 53-59 ft-lbs for "front axle carrier to body".
It actually seems kind of low given their size.

I've attributed occasional episodes of RPM-dependent buzzing in the general driver side dash area to the speedometer cable. They are mechanical in these cars - just a square-cross section cable spinning inside a sheath. There's not a whole lot that can be done, except maybe get some graphite powder ...

All good suggestions here, but I've unfortunately done all these for the most part. Recall where I'm at. Both calipers are new BMW parts. Pulled the wheels and the pads after the test drive with left pulling while braking. Inspection with pedal action showed hydraulic action to the right caliper eve...

Robert, The blue e12 factory manual section 34-00/2 says "Bleed all 3 bleeder screws A, B and C. Always bleed both lower pistons in sequence B-C." I interpret that as lowest to highest in elevation. (A is the upper screw, B inner and C outer) I know we're drilling down to tiny details her...

What was the wear pattern like on the pads? I had a a blown seal on a front piston. The car pulled to the other side and the pad with the offending piston was thicker/less worn than the pad on the opposite side of the rotor. Randy, There's not enough mileage to establish a wear pattern. After one 3...

JodyStevens wrote:Bias valve is located right above the frame rail below the brake booster on the driver side(assuming LHD). Not sure if they go bad, but they are not serviceable or adjustable.

Yes, the pressure regulator can go bad. In my case, it just started leaking.

"Different responses" between calipers indicates semi-seized piston or pistons. But these are new OEM from BMW? They come with a 2 year warranty if defective. How did you measure the response? How dramatic is the "pull"? If it pulls hard, then likely caliper / pad / rotor relate...

I have found a complete rebuild of all 4 calipers is helpful if there is no recollection of this being done in the last 20 years. Some of the pucks just get frozen in place which renders that one inoperative and throws the balance totally off. There is nothing like the first drive on a set of fresh...

Hello All, I'm planning to replace the rubber front door sealing trim - #1 in the diagram. Anyone have experience removing the door trim to do the job? Of course the factory manual makes it look so easy but reality looks very different. I do have the new parts btw. Thanks. http://www.realoem.com/bm...