Steering Column U Joint

REman · Post by **REman** » Sun Mar 13, 2016 2:23 pm

Hello E12 Gurus',

Seeking help/advice on how to remove replace one of these. Aka flex disc in the steering column. It's in a real tight spot (under brake booster) and my first attempt failed. Couldn't even loosen one of the four nuts. Tried from above and below, with open end or closed wrenches and can't fit a socket in there either. So can't get enough torque going with the tight space it's in.

Rubber has harden and cracked at one bolt, that I could see. Don't think it's much of a safety issue at this time, not a daily driver. Although what made me inspect it was a little more play in the steering around some curvy country roads last weekend. Steering didn't feel responsive as it should. All other front end components up to date with exception of control arms but don't see anything obvious there, boots and rubber look good.

Thanks in advance.

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Sun Mar 13, 2016 6:30 pm

Sometimes you have to dig a bigger hole than you planned.

I'd plan to take off the master cylinder and then the booster. That is unless you cannot get at it from under the car. If you have a power bleeder, removing the master is not that bad of a plan. Bleeding brakes with one of these is a pleasure.

Is the coupling still available new? I've never found a need to replace one.

REman · Post by **REman** » Mon Mar 14, 2016 8:33 am

I was hoping to avoid removing the master cylinder and brake booster. I'm thinking I may have to have it done from underneath up on a lift. I tried it on my back but had no luck.

The part is still available $22.95 at Bav Auto.

kevin1991 · Post by **kevin1991** » Thu Mar 17, 2016 4:08 am

I'm doing the same thing on my E24...
I can't distmantle the brake booster as it's still locked with one 1 bolt.
I need to remove the steering column first.

The flexdisc is still available I just ordered one.
I soaked it with oil and I will try again this weekend.
It's really tricky and there is not much space to work...

Robert Bondi · Post by **Robert Bondi** » Sat Mar 19, 2016 6:02 pm

I did this job a couple of years ago. That was a side journey while rebuilding the entire front suspension including removal of the subframe and separation from the steering box.

Knowing that the coupling was still available, removal of the rubber coupling ended up being destructive. The rubber was pretty hard and a cutting wheel on the Dremel tool was part of the removal. Work was done from the bottom. There was a spring in there too - not sure of function - almost seemed partly like electrical ground. I found something at McMaster-Carr that served for its replacement with minimal modification.

REman · Post by **REman** » Mon Mar 28, 2016 3:53 pm

Decided the only way I was getting to it was to remove the brake booster. Thanks Ron Dwyer!
Removed and as you can see in pretty bad shape. Not so sure I didn't rip it up further removing those old lock nuts, anyway it's done and I'm getting ready to install the new one.

While waiting for the part I started inspecting the booster and according to Real OEM there is supposed to be a filter/air cleaner and "absorber" there on the side of the firewall (in the boot?). I did not find that on mine. Picture below shows mine with different attachment also. I was wondering if anyone had any input on this if you've encountered also.?

[/img]http://s297.photobucket.com/user/reman1 ... sort=1&o=0

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Mon Mar 28, 2016 10:51 pm

None of the pictures loaded

If I was you, I would send the booster to the place in San Jose I recently recommended that rebuilds them. No need to worry about that ever again in your likely term of ownership. And, explore a new master cylinder. How old is it? While you are at it, remember the brake circuits are all empty, replace the flex hoses. Don't fall for the nonsense of teflon unless you want to ogle your non DOT approved hoses on a creeper every spare moment. They are not DOT approved because they will not withstand a kink inducing bend. Trust me, I worked at Aeroquip corporate many years ago. They make the parts for off-road use only. No more soapbox. New DOT hoses work just fine.

Don't forget new flex hoses from the reservoir. The blue hose is cool, wash your hands first, you never get the hoses as clean as they are when new. I wear nitrile gloves usually.

Change a few of the PS hoses while you have it all opened up! The feed line to the pump is usually overlooked. And, if you get out the purple degreaser and clean the inner fender you will never have quite the chance to reach it all so easily ever again!

Are we having fun yet?

I want to get mine back on the road in the coming weeks, have a furniture project to get done then the car, then a new garage floor.

Keep us posted on the status of your credit cards, we are happy to help you load them up!

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Tue Mar 29, 2016 12:48 am

The spring is in fact a ground and necessary if you want your horn to work.

REman · Post by **REman** » Tue Mar 29, 2016 1:42 pm

Would not have guessed that about the spring being a ground hmm,

Ron, I have done most of the thing you suggested about 5 years ago. Anyway have put it all back together and all went on easier than it came off. Just kept the servo as I found it without the filter. Seems to work fine as before so not gonna worry about it.

Thanks for everyone"s input!

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Wed Mar 30, 2016 10:19 am

Glad to hear it all worked out well. Hope you have a pressure bleeder, they make brake jobs so easy, and fluid changes too. I think mine is made with a bug sprayer and an old cap from a reservoir.

REman · Post by **REman** » Wed Mar 30, 2016 1:25 pm

Funny you mention that Ron, went and bought one pressure bleeder from Harbor Freight and worked like crap! Caused me more time than using the pedal to flush out the fluid/air. Needless to say I took back the $25 piece of junk LOL.

Btw noticeable difference after replacing that flex disc...much better feel in steering wheel and control. Mostly the feel of better planted wheels unlike the shakes and rattles I was experiencing before in the steering wheel going over the smallest bumps and cracks in the road, almost felt like some front end components were bad when I knew they weren't, weird.

Lock · Post by **Lock** » Wed Mar 30, 2016 1:45 pm

Maybe that's the issue Jorge is seeing with his car, worn flex disc resulting in crappy steering..

sd-mk2 · Post by **sd-mk2** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 3:08 am

hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... interesting

sd-mk2 · Post by **sd-mk2** » Thu Mar 31, 2016 3:14 am

Although my car doesn't have any stability / shake issues from road feedback.
Its just side to side play with my steering problem.

My ride feel is outstanding at the moment. Also, I just took out my break booster and had it painted and we replaced any worn parts.

I'll keep this in mind though.