1980 528i rear shifter mount? E12 revival process

[triiodide]

So my shifter has been extremely sloppy since I've owned my e12 and I'm ashamed to say that I had neglected to do anything about it.. when shifting into second and fourth the shifter would smack into the console. Two years ago I left it parked at my father's house, due to a (externally) leaking fuel pressure regulator, and completely wasted suspension. and I couldn't let the car sit any more. In the past month I've replaced the regulator all of the fuel lines in the back by the tank, jumped a few injectors with a battery charger and she's running like a charm again! new rear shocks are in, along with a set of B&G lowering springs, and new brake pads all around. The car is now on jacks and both front strut housings are off and the front strut inserts showed up today, lucky I found some kyb's on eBay because they're discontinued. My old stock springs were so worn out it actually sits a little higher now. I figured now is the time to find what's wrong with the shifter! After digging out the old crumbling sound dampening foam from the top.. I realized the whole rear mount is gone! The rear of the entire assembly had fallen and is resting on the transmission. https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpa ... Id=25_0224
As far as I can tell #s 14, 15, and 16 are all gone and I'm having difficulty figuring out how it is supposed to mount up.. it's quite hard to get to from under the car, does anyone know if the far rear hole lines up to a threaded hole in the car? Any input is greatly appreciated. I have a few pictures but can't figure out how to post through my phone.

[Joe Boston]

I just went through the same problem last week as my shifter was a little sloppy, but i also had problem shifting in 1st, 3rd and 5th gear, with both engine off or running.
So I removed the entire muffler from exhuast manifold, and removed the heat shield, to access the area..
So part #16 is bolted to upper part of the transmission tunnel (mine was still there) and replaced part # 15 it was only $9.00 and part # 14 was still there which inserts to the stud from part# 15 and a M8 nut.
part # 16 is available here @ fcpeuro short money or @ turnermotorsport
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-bow-41121863345
in addition a bolt was missing (part# 2) from the shifting arm on the left side. I went through the other bolts and reassembled everything and now shifter is tight...
no problems any longer..
Now i need to change the fliud in transmission with redline MTL

[CabbageFumes]

As far as I can tell #s 14, 15, and 16 are all gone and I'm having difficulty figuring out how it is supposed to mount up.

What year is your car? Only '80 and later had a rear mount. Anything earlier used the front mount only. Pretty unlikely that a whole mount would just disappear.

[Joe Boston]

Mine is a 1980

[triiodide]

Mine is definitely a 1980, I can see just empty bolt holes on the body of the car up where the bracket should be, I may be temporarily hard mounting it to the body of the car, as long as it doesn't cause any linkage to bind. Most of the car is going back together today, hoping for the best!

[CabbageFumes]

Mine is definitely a 1980, I can see just empty bolt holes on the body of the car up where the bracket should be, I may be temporarily hard mounting it to the body of the car, as long as it doesn't cause any linkage to bind.

The console is the part that is connected to the trans at front and that the shifter itself is mounted in. On the console, is there a flat piece that extends rearward past the shifter, with a hole in the center of it, or does the console end right after where the shifter ball is?

[RonDwyer]

Red Line MTL might just mean the end of your gear clusters. I do not recommend it for reasons told to me years back by Steve Dinan. Some of us have good luck with it, for a while. It all has to do with maintaining the shear angle on your gears. You change the fluid from hypoid dope and suddenly you have this thin slippery stuff that changes the clearances. Replacement 265 boxes are rare, and parts to rebuild them are pricey. I prefer to put up with stiff shifting until the box warms up. It starts with increasing cluster noise, by then it is too late.

[CabbageFumes]

Red Line MTL might just mean the end of your gear clusters. I do not recommend it for reasons told to me years back by Steve Dinan. Some of us have good luck with it, for a while. It all has to do with maintaining the shear angle on your gears. You change the fluid from hypoid dope and suddenly you have this thin slippery stuff that changes the clearances. Replacement 265 boxes are rare, and parts to rebuild them are pricey. I prefer to put up with stiff shifting until the box warms up. It starts with increasing cluster noise, by then it is too late.

Good advice, Ron.

[Joe Boston]

Red Line MTL might just mean the end of your gear clusters. I do not recommend it for reasons told to me years back by Steve Dinan. Some of us have good luck with it, for a while. It all has to do with maintaining the shear angle on your gears. You change the fluid from hypoid dope and suddenly you have this thin slippery stuff that changes the clearances. Replacement 265 boxes are rare, and parts to rebuild them are pricey. I prefer to put up with stiff shifting until the box warms up. It starts with increasing cluster noise, by then it is too late.

So you wouldn't recommend Red Line MTL? Just brand oil like Mobil 1 SAE 80
no with Hypoid oils. I wasn't sure as I heard on the other boards people using MTL for manual transmissions.
if not Mobil 1 do you have any optional brands to recommend?

I do agree that the 265 are rare, parts for them a NLA...

[Joe Boston]

what about Motyl Gear?