Sound proofing

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Hogzip
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:14 pm
Location: Milwaukee, WI

Sound proofing

Post by Hogzip »

Just put a 3.5 liter engine in my 1981 E12, and find that the engine noise is now louder inside the car. I would like to have it quieter inside the car.

Does anyone have experience with adding soundproofing within the engine compartment, on the inside of the firewall, on the floor, etc.? I've seen ads in the Roundel for Dynamat - anyone have experience with that?

Respond to forum or call or e-mail.

Comments appreciated.

Brian Younger
brian@youngersolutions.com
262-672-0733
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T.Hanson
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Post by T.Hanson »

Coincidence,... I just saw one of the resto shows adding sound proofing mat in an interior. It looked like inch thick foam between the silver coverings.

The installer made the point they'd bought the stuff at the local home products depot and saved quite a bit of money over the supposedly specialized automotive versions. That are not.

My 2¢, assuming you are satisfied the product is heat, fire resistant, haul off and install it where you wish. Maybe beginning with the original factory installation locations.
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Mike W.
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Post by Mike W. »

I went to some lengths to try to soundproof things more when I built my '80 and it didn't do much good, although perhaps I went about it wrong. I did use some additional soundproofing on the firewall, on the engine side IIRC. And lots on the floor.

If I had it to do over I'd install a brand new, BMW muffler, I think they get noisier with age as the fiberglass becomes more or less solid with soot. I'd replace the windlace the windows ride in, I've heard that makes a big difference, add some insulation, perhapsy Dynomat or similar on the doors and sunroof and figure out a way to use the vapor barriers off a later car or make them, E36 and 39s and probably lots more use a 1/8" foam barrier rather than saran wrap that E12s did. Even E28s used a piece of vinyl with a thin foam on it.

I'm not sure that's the ultimate solution, but that's what I'd do.
Mike W.



1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
T.Hanson
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Post by T.Hanson »

I agree with Mike's exhaust replacement solution as step one. My cars are factory stock systems to not notice much noise.

Depending upon your commitment and the car's condition otherwise, don't be surprised to realize removing the seats to remove the carpet, padding, door panels is no afternoon job. It is not uncommon to discover the forward sunroof drain tubes have been plugged, resulting in rust on the floors.
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Robert Bondi
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Post by Robert Bondi »

Within the last 4 years, I've rebuilt the internals of all 4 doors: door gaskets, weatherstripping, window brushes, lubrication, nylon bushing replacement, etc.....That work also included installing Dynamat under the door cards instead of the vapor barrier. The Dynamat 1/16" thick rubber with aluminized skin is effectively a water barrier too. If I go back in and cut the Dynamat, I'll just add a vapor barrier.

I was impressed with the noise reduction - both wind noise on the road and in the sound of the door when pulled close from the inside. The improvement was obvious with just the driver's door done while driving. That motivated the remainder of the doors.

I plan to use Dynamat in other applications as needed. I've got crumbling foam on the trunk inside under that vinyl skin surrounding the tool kit. I haven't gone in there yet, but seems like another Dynamat application.

I discovered Dynamat in the Summit catalog, but am also seeing in in the Roundel, as mentioned.
Robert
77 530i
77 Euro 528
Hogzip
Posts: 90
Joined: Wed Oct 13, 2010 9:14 pm
Location: Milwaukee, WI

Sound proofing

Post by Hogzip »

Great to get all the good feedback!!!

I have put in a new BMW E28 muffler (center resonator, rear muffler and associated pipes are sold together- $800+ - ouch!!!), as well as a new cat and used e28 exhaust manifolds. So I should have the quietness of a "new"/stock exhaust system.

I've also done some stuff to trim and wind moldings in the doors, but I haven't done all the 'internals" as Robert descsribes above - sounds like that would be very useful.

Tim - your comment about sunroof drain tubes and rust on the floor - Is there a way of telling if that is occurring without taking the seats and carpet out? I will be eventually taking them out, but I'd like to get a handle on a potential rust problem ASAP.

My challenge as I understand it at this time is the engine noise, and maybe the transmission noise. I'm sure padding on the floor and in the doors will help that, but how about some firewall -specific suggestions either on the engine side or the cabin side?

Thanks,
Brian
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T.Hanson
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Post by T.Hanson »

Only your abiding in Milwaukee, maybe not the car for 35 years. The rule is pretty simple, any visible rust is all over, in one way or another.

Getting a peek under the carpet / padding without removing the seat(s) is doable but an exercise in folding, lifting, crunching. Removing the lower door kick strips helps the lifting.

No big deal. What's there isn't going to get that much worse,... in a few six months until spring.
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