Rear brake seized?

[canada karl]

Hello First Five Diehards I bought a well preserved 77 E12. It's an automatic. It starts and runs well. The issue is it hasn't moved in a couple years so when it's put in Reverse it seems that the left rear brake is locked on preventing movement. The car is out of town and I'm going out next week to pull the wheel and see what the problem is.I have to drive it back about about a 100 miles. I'm thinking maybe the handbrake cable did not release properly or one of the park brake shoes is seized in the disk hub? Hopefully not a seized disk brake caliper. Anyone care to speculate or has had this problem before?

[T.Hanson]

Off the top of 2¢, you do not have to drive it back 100 miles. There are trailers.

Not being moved for a couple of years, or six months, should illuminate the bulb on a thorough inspection of all moving parts. Moisture, rust, mouse pajamas, ice cream in the oil,... one must take things apart, clean, rebuild as new or suffer the consequences.

[canada karl]

The car was well cared for. All fluids are up,no mouse infestation,no major rust issues,starts and runs and shifts OK. Car is located in a treed area making it difficult to for a tow truck to get in unless it's winched out to the road.
My question was specific to rear brake lock up. Thought there my be some ideas on that. I'll know once I jack up the rear end. How many E12 guys still follow this forum? It's always been a good resource for me.

[Mike W.]

If it's a seized ebrake and you can get under it, you might try spraying the cable with penetrating oil if it, like most now, have the plastic housing rotted away. That might help. Might.

[PatinaBeforePolish]

Karl,

Did you find the car with the handbrake engaged, handle in the up position? What happens when you apply the handbrake? If the cable is seized with the parking brake engaged there should be more than normal play or travel in the lever. If that's the case I would just cut the cable close to the brake as it needs to be replaced anyway. But try the penetrating oil first. If it's not the parking brake then you'll need to remove the caliper which could be challenging in the field. And you won't be able to safely drive it home unless you bring a spare caliper. You'll likely need a rotor as well.