Rear crank seal carrier

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KenB
Posts: 291
Joined: Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:53 pm

Rear crank seal carrier

Post by KenB »

I pulled out the rear crank seal carrier in an effort to be thorough while swapping transmissions and although I was careful about it a chunk of my pan gasket came off with it, still stuck to the extracted carrier. Now I realize that going by the book I should now replace my pan gasket but I really would prefer not to do that. Does anyone out there think I can actually get away with putting some gasket sealant or form-a-gasket in there and somehow NOT end up with a big leaker?

Love to hear from you. :)

Ken
1979 528i about to be 5-speed
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1st 5er
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Post by 1st 5er »

It's possible that'll work, but I'd go ahead and do it right while in there.
Sherman

TexFest LSB&F V

95 525iT (Her DD)
92 ///M5 (????)
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Mike W.
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Post by Mike W. »

I have not used the gasket makers, but good old Permatex works pretty well, I'd use #1 hardening type, though either 1 or 2 should work fine. Get it good and clean, goop it up and you should be fine. Replacing the gasket is the preferred way, but it's not always an ideal world.
Mike W.



1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
KenB
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Post by KenB »

Oh mike, I took your silence as disapproval and decided to bite the bullet and do it. :) I've got the entire front suspension off but haven't tried to pull the pan yet. I remember I pulled a pan once on a 528i several years ago and it was kind of easy to drop out but frustrating to put back in. I am pretty sure the sway bar was in place on that one. This time it will not be. Will the pan drop out and slide back in easily without messing with the front subframe? I sure hope so.

Thanks,
KenB
Luis A.
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Location: Milwaukee, WI

Post by Luis A. »

Although not for this specific application, I've used "The Right Stuff" gasket maker with great success. It has no set time, seems much tougher than RTV so whatever little excess you might have seep out of the joint will not separate and go places ready to clog up oil passages. I also like Hylomar (used it for joining split-case engines) since it never really hardens and is less likely to clog up passages. Anyone here use either?
Luis

1976 3.0 Si, Taiga
1973 3.0 CS, Golf
1966 1800, Turf
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