Auto trans cooler line adapter?

Lock · Post by **Lock** » Sun Dec 27, 2015 4:08 pm

Hey guys, wondering if anyone knows of any auto trans cooler line adapter fittings for the e12? I want to put a magnefine inline filter in, which is just a hose fitting, so want a pair to fit the radiator and the return cooler line. I have some adapters from a B&M transmission cooler, but they're smaller. All I know is the nut is 22mm, and after hours of googling I can't find any kind of adapter to convert the line to a hose barb fitting (say 3/8 or 1/2). It's a 79 528i with the 3HP22 auto box.

The fluid is really old and gunky and I want to change it out very slowly, to make sure I don't disturb any big particles and clog it up and wreck the whole thing.

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Wed Dec 30, 2015 7:46 pm

If your fluid is as bad as you say, why aren't you dropping the pan to thoroughly clean everything that has old fluid on it?

The pan filter is just fine for your transmission. Unlike an engine which is bypassing combustion byproducts to the crankcase for the oil to absorb an automatic is supposed to recirculate clean fluid and the occasional particles off the clutches. Think about the gunk as a blood clot, or lots of them. Get that crap out as fast as possible. Drop the pan and clean it. Gunk doesn't help hold your gearbox together. As for faux hi-po aftermarket crap like B&M stuff, if you ever plan to sell that car the buyers interested in them will not want to see hacked hoses and non-oem parts.

Years ago when I was the tech sessions coordinator for the local BMWCCA chapter here in the SF Bay area we visited a well-regarded tuner to hear about performance mods. Big take-away was skip K&N filters, they don't properly clean your air until they are dirty enough. You wont notice the driving difference anyway. Don't change out gearbox fluids in an old car for synthetics. The shear characteristics of fluids that were not available for your car will result in transmission and rear end failures. Think about it, a worn gear will need a thicker layer of lube, not a thinner one. Keep it fresh, and as recommended.

As for a supplemental filter on the ATF, why? If your clutches are that bad get a rebuild from Peter Schmid in San Carlos. Or a used gearbox from Marshall at 002 in Hayward.

Lock · Post by **Lock** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 3:25 am

RonDwyer wrote:If your fluid is as bad as you say, why aren't you dropping the pan to thoroughly clean everything that has old fluid on it?

The pan filter is just fine for your transmission. Unlike an engine which is bypassing combustion byproducts to the crankcase for the oil to absorb an automatic is supposed to recirculate clean fluid and the occasional particles off the clutches. Think about the gunk as a blood clot, or lots of them. Get that crap out as fast as possible. Drop the pan and clean it. Gunk doesn't help hold your gearbox together. As for faux hi-po aftermarket crap like B&M stuff, if you ever plan to sell that car the buyers interested in them will not want to see hacked hoses and non-oem parts.

Years ago when I was the tech sessions coordinator for the local BMWCCA chapter here in the SF Bay area we visited a well-regarded tuner to hear about performance mods. Big take-away was skip K&N filters, they don't properly clean your air until they are dirty enough. You wont notice the driving difference anyway. Don't change out gearbox fluids in an old car for synthetics. The shear characteristics of fluids that were not available for your car will result in transmission and rear end failures. Think about it, a worn gear will need a thicker layer of lube, not a thinner one. Keep it fresh, and as recommended.

As for a supplemental filter on the ATF, why? If your clutches are that bad get a rebuild from Peter Schmid in San Carlos. Or a used gearbox from Marshall at 002 in Hayward.

Thanks Ron, yea I'm definitely doing a pan drop, clean + new filter, hoping to this weekend. I've already got one new filter and 2 more on the way. The inline filter was only an idea as an addition to this, because a. the box doesn't have a magnet in there from factory and b. a pan drop (without flush) will only change about 1/3rd of the fluid at a time and I thought this would help. Car friends including mechanics have said change it slowly to lessen the risk of dislodging a big piece of crap and having it block something important so I figured an extra filter with a magnet would help clear up the old fluid mixed with new as I do a few changes.
The clutches still seem good, 1st-2nd can chirp the rear wheels. It's just mostly running like it has low pressure as it's slow to do everything, I'm guessing from a really clogged filter. The trans fluid is black and has lots of tiny black particles in it, but doesn't smell burnt (or smell of anything). People just keep telling me horror stories of changing/flushing a transmission and then it dying weeks later, so I'm worried about killing it.

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 11:52 am

Old mechanics trick: Put a speaker magnet on the outside of the tranny pan. We can't do that on aluminum engine pans anymore. I'd crack the lines at the gearbox and blow them out with some compressed air. not high pressure, just enough to blow it out, see which line exits the radiator at the bottom. That will be your discharge line.

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Thu Dec 31, 2015 1:02 pm

Change the fluid, what comes out of the pan, and the filter. Then next oil change or whenever, pull the plug in the pan and do it again, not bothering with the filter. Next oil change do it again. You won't need to do the filter again for a long time, just keep changing what comes out of the pan.

Lock · Post by **Lock** » Sat Jan 02, 2016 1:35 am

Update - Pan dropped and cleaned, filter changed. Old fluid was black sludge, filter had a lot of particles, some metallic and some pieces that were clearly getting through. Also a tiny curved piece of metal about 1/2inch long. Hope it wasn't anything important.
But it shifts far better now, doesn't feel sick anymore. Looks like this wasn't too far gone, and there's some still life left in it yet.

While under there found:
Years of of oil and gunk residue
New engine mounts and new driveshaft guibo thing
A piece of wood purposely jammed between the trans pan and the exhaust(?)
Mystery disconnected wires in random places
A hole in the exhaust
And the cause of the play in my steering - heaps of play in the join between the pitman arm to track rod. Whatever that particular bolt/rubber thing is, I need a new one. Looks like I need a puller too.
That was my new years day anyway. Happy 2016.

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Sat Jan 02, 2016 12:21 pm

San Jose Steam Cleaning can put the ca on a hoist and properly clean everything under it Over by the Shark Tank,

Lock · Post by **Lock** » Thu Jan 14, 2016 3:13 am

RonDwyer wrote:San Jose Steam Cleaning can put the ca on a hoist and properly clean everything under it Over by the Shark Tank,

Huh just realized I've taken my daily driver to that car wash a few times, didn't notice they did underbody steam cleaning too.

Although at this point I've been under the E12 so often recently for the transmission and steering that most of the muck is off the underside, and is now on all my favorite t-shirts.

Lock · Post by **Lock** » Sat Jan 23, 2016 2:28 pm

Further update to my transmission saga, went out to get Boston Market the other night and took the beemer to enjoy the newly-fixed sharp steering and give it a run. It felt really weird and drove strange, revving really high and snapping into gear. Figured it out - I've lost 2nd. It goes 1st, then revs until 3rd would normally be selected, and it slams into 3rd (at least there's no slipping). Putting it into 2nd only selects 1st. Kickdown slams into 1st also.
Looking at a 3HP22 service guide I found on a Peugeot 505 forum, 1st engages the A clutch, 2nd adds the C' brake, so this is not engaging. It's not the governor because the selector doesn't manually engage 2nd. I figure something did get loose after all and blocked up the valve body, despite the changes. I'm going to try seafoam or lucas trans fix to see if it can dislodge the gunk, otherwise I'll have a go at taking the valve body out and cleaning it which I've never done before. It's not dead just exists to frustrate me which is why I got it I guess.
Some days I love it, other days I want to push it off a cliff.

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Sat Jan 23, 2016 2:43 pm

Call 002 Salvage in Hayward and get a used one with a clean torque converter. Or call Dirk at the place in Burlingame that is the local ZF facility and get an exchange rebuilt. Or if it is in good shape otherwise sell it to me!

Lock · Post by **Lock** » Sat Jan 23, 2016 3:09 pm

RonDwyer wrote:Call 002 Salvage in Hayward and get a used one with a clean torque converter. Or call Dirk at the place in Burlingame that is the local ZF facility and get an exchange rebuilt. Or if it is in good shape otherwise sell it to me!

Considering my options.. I will try fixing it, I like its constant challenges. But if do I get tired of it I'll let you know! I'd prefer a 5-speed but that was meant to be a future project. Other than this it's a healthy rust-free car which needs a tune-up.

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Sun Jan 24, 2016 6:26 pm

Wow, Same color as the one I just parted out. I have an almost complete conversion kit to do just about everything. Let me know if you are interested before I part it out. I really don't want all these pieces, inventory is for museums.

Ron 510-590-7369

Lock · Post by **Lock** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 12:56 pm

PM sent