Paging Mike....Front end torque again?

[canada karl]

Hey Mike In the Specs I still can't find the torque for "the 3 bolts that hold the control arm to the spring strut".... basically that cap that covers the ball joint nut.
Also is there a torque for that ball joint castle nut or can it just be tightened until a cotter pin can just fit thu???
Thx Karl

[Mike W.]

It's not really a critical torque, but due use red locktite, originally they were safety wired. On the ball joint nut, again use standard values, then adjust as needed to the closest. On the ball joints, lightly oil or grease the taper to make it much easier to remove the next time.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... Gc&cad=rja

[canada karl]

Thanks Mike.

[PatinaBeforePolish]

Karl,

I checked the manual and it refers to standard torque specs based on size as Mike shows. And it does show the strut bolts are safety wired - when was the last time you saw that?!

[Mike W.]

Karl,

I checked the manual and it refers to standard torque specs based on size as Mike shows. And it does show the strut bolts are safety wired - when was the last time you saw that?!

My E3 had them safety wired. Same design.

[canada karl]

I'm going to undo those 3 bolts and check the torque on the ball joint castle nut. Do you guys have any idea of what the torque on that nut should be before the cotter pin goes in or what size it's supposed to be on the chart???

I was looking at the coil spring pads and they are in bad shape so I'm going to order new ones from Maximillian. Also I bought the 23mm sway bar rubber mountings but they are too big. How can I determine if I need 21mm or22mm for my 76 530i?

[Mike W.]

Also I bought the 23mm sway bar rubber mountings but they are too big. How can I determine if I need 21mm or22mm for my 76 530i?

Measure it? Does Harbor Freight sell in Canada? They've usually got a respectable dial caliper for cheap. Really for this even a plastic veneer caliper would work. Amazon? The digital ones are nice too, switch back and forth between inches and MM. In a pinch you can even use the poor mans caliper, a crescent wrench, then measure the opening. Or match up open end wrenches.

[RonDwyer]

The rod ends are designed with what is called a Morse Taper. It is a precision fit that is designed to hold together tightly. The bolt is less important than the taper fit. As long as the bolt is a bit beyond snug, and secured with a cotter key you are good to go. Newer assemblies are being shipped with nylock nuts. Be sure to seat the taper well before driving down that one, otherwise you will just spin the ball shaft assembly. More tapers need to be pressed or 'broken' with a pickle fork to separate them.

Google the Morse taper for more information.

[canada karl]

[quote="RonDwyer"]The rod ends are designed with what is called a Morse Taper. It is a precision fit that is designed to hold together tightly. The bolt is less important than the taper fit. As long as the bolt is a bit beyond snug, and secured with a cotter key you are good to go. Newer assemblies are being shipped with nylock nuts. Be sure to seat the taper well before driving down that one, otherwise you will just spin the ball shaft assembly. More tapers need to be pressed or 'broken' with a pickle fork to separate them.

Google the Morse taper for more information.[/quote
Thanks Ron
I guess I'm overthinking the castle nut torque.I did have the nut"a bit beyond snug" before I put the cotter pin in so I'm not going to bother looking for a torque value for it.