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Problems are not solved, but I am back on the timing track again. After several checks of TDC and camshaft position and a distributor overhaul everything seems to be after the book! But when engine is idling at 900 rpm the timing shows about 15-20 degrees AFTER TDC (ref. hot exhaust manifold and combustion in the exhaust pipes).A new inspection of the camshaft sprocket today revealed a small mark on the edge, about two teeths to the left from the top. This is about 20 degrees. Does this mean that the cam may be unoriginal and has another setup than the original camshaft?

https://picasaweb.google.com/1161828027 ... 29Juni2013[/url]

I found your albums, but not the pic, where is it?

https://picasaweb.google.com/116182802701338047834

It had restrictions but now its for public view,I think!

I checked out my last theory today, but it didn´t work of course. The valves hits the top of the pistons when one change camshaft angle 20 degrees, so now its back to start again

The rotor (photo)is spot on the the mark on distributor housing when scrancshaft is at TDC.


https://picasaweb.google.com/1161828027 ... 2531919074

That mark on the distributor itself is only good for getting it close enough to start, after that use your ear or the flywheel.

I just had another thought. Is your distributor single or dual diaphragm and where are you hooking up the vacuum line(s)? I've seen them hooked up wrong.

It´s dual diaphragm. One vacuum line (black) to the left of the throttle house
and the white one to the right (photo)

https://picasaweb.google.com/1161828027 ... 29Juni2013

The cam is in the right position.

Did you disconnect the vacuum lines and plugged them when timing it?

Are you sure you are timing the right marking on the flywheel? There are two (TDC or OT) and the 22 deg timing mark.

Check the aux air valve - it should be 100% closed at normal running temp. (ca 90 degC)

Cheers
Anders

After a long period with troubleshooting I decided to order a new (used) distributor. It arrived a couple of days. It was very dirty and, yes, it looked veery used. I installed it and turned the key. Engine started and revved to about 2200 rpm, but now the timing showed 22 degrees BTDC and no overheating. So it was an improvement but not the end of story. Where did all the combustion air come from? I decided to inspect the throttle screw again. It was screwed all the way in but I moved it back and forth a couple of times and experienced that it was going longer into the housing each time. I but a lot of tork on it. I pulled it out and rinsed the threads. They where clogged with dirt and fine grained sand from the sandblasting. I cleaned and brushed over and over again until the throttle screw hit the seat inside the house. The screw was now 8-10 mm deeper into the house than when I started.
I started the engine again and it runs like a Swiss watch!

Nice to hear you found it! Now enjoy your car!

I would be so reserved about sand blasting engine parts. Just the thought of sand in the engine makes me shiver

God to hear that you've solved the problem.
Funny, on my car the dirty distributor works best as well.