So, after dealing with my ignition switch going bad and setting up a way around that for the time being, the car drove great for a few weeks. Went to my GF's place just before we were to leave on a flight (isn't that always when stuff like this happens) and parked the car.
Came down a few minutes later and she would turn over but not start.
Looked at my fuel gauge.. all good there.. checked the tank just in case.. yup there is fuel and no visible leaks
Nothing to do the remainder of that day... come back from trip and check for spark. Yup, she sparks because I could get her to fire up with some starter fluid into the air box. So distributor must be working too. She would fire up and then just putter out and die.
Far as I can tell, the fuel pump is working (there is power to it and it actually was replaced just a few years ago).
So, took her to a mechanic. He has had it for a few weeks and he seems puzzled. He is a BMW guy (Autohaus in Burlingame CA if anyone know of him). I talked to him today and he said he thinks it is one of the computers. He said the injectors are clean and the fuel pump is ok, but no fuel is being injected.
Another thing worthy of note is that she was still hot when I tried to start her the first time she refused. I know these cars have a special mechanism for increasing fuel when cold, so I dont think that is involved because it would not have been one of the variables while she was still hot.
Anyone had this issue before? I am worried because not knowing what the issue is might be cause for buying a lot of (expensive) un-needed parts to get to the real issue.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated. I love this E12 and would love to keep it running.
Engine turns over, have spark, fuel pump works.. no start
Engine turns over, have spark, fuel pump works.. no start
Riles - 1979 - E12 - 528i - Alpine White - 4 on the floor
Fuel pressure regulator
I know very little of it. Would you be able to provide me some advice on how to troubleshoot the fuel pressure reg? I'll do a search on the posts here and google as well. I did not think to consider it.
Riles - 1979 - E12 - 528i - Alpine White - 4 on the floor
I had a similar no-start issue that was caused by the ignition resistor. Part # is 12141360676. Its an easy thing to at least cross off the list. The wires running to mine were corroded. I cleaned them up, put them back on the resistor and the car fired right up. Prior to that, it would just turn and seemed like it would try to start, but couldn't. Mine was located on the sidewall of the quarter panel by the passenger headlight. Good luck! I hope it turns out to be that easy and not something more complicated.
1976 BMW 530i | 2011 BMW 550i xdrive M-Sport | 1994 Ford F150
BMWCCA: 447871
BMWCCA: 447871
Ignition resistor - thank you I will take a look
Thank you for the advice on the ignition resistor. I will drop in the shop and see if I can locate it... that would be great if that was the only issue! I'll post back after checking it out.
Riles - 1979 - E12 - 528i - Alpine White - 4 on the floor
-
socalfiver
- Posts: 229
- Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2010 12:31 pm
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
Sounds like a combo relay. Have you verified that fuel rail is pressurized while the starter is turning?
Remove the top half of the airbox along with the elbow. With the key in the "run" position, push the flap on the AFM in a little bit. You should immediately hear the fuel pump running. If you fo not, the problem is most likely combo relay failure.
its the black double relay mounted up high near the master cylinder. You should hear it click when you push on the AFM flap.
Remove the top half of the airbox along with the elbow. With the key in the "run" position, push the flap on the AFM in a little bit. You should immediately hear the fuel pump running. If you fo not, the problem is most likely combo relay failure.
its the black double relay mounted up high near the master cylinder. You should hear it click when you push on the AFM flap.
"Get it while you can." -Janis Joplin
1980 528i Automatic, "Frau Blucher"
1982 BMW R100RS
1982 633csi 5 speed
1980 528i Automatic, "Frau Blucher"
1982 BMW R100RS
1982 633csi 5 speed
clean ground connections injectors
Clean ground connections for injectors. I had corrosion at connectors inside insulation where crimped. there should be two connections for set of three wires. This caused irregular no-start problems at most inopportune times.
Thank you.. hopefully she stays running
So a big thank you to your responses. The guy at the shop where the car was (Autohaus in Burlingame, CA) actually had the car for more than a month. He never once called me, and when I would call he would barely acknowledge me and would say "ya, ya, we almost have it figured out"
Finally a few weeks ago when I called he said he did not have time for "that car" and that he wanted me to come pick it up. I guess that is the way it goes with these E12s, most people don't want to deal with them and don't know their way around the car.
Anyway, I have a friend who let me get the car towed to his house where I would be able to work on it myself. This evening was the first chance I have had and you guys gave me a great list of items to run through to further troubleshoot. These are the steps I took:
1. Popped the hood to find that the shop had disconnected all the injectors and left the wire hanging there. So reconnected those after inspecting them per DonT's remarks. They actually looked really good and even the rubber is in good shape. I hit them with a toothbrush just for good measure and reconnected. Still no start.
2. Per socalfiver, I removed the airbox top and elbow and put key in and in run position. Pressed the flap and good a distinct click along with hearing the fuel pump. So combo relay seems to be working... put all that back together.. unfortunately I did not think to try and start the car after that and moved directly onto step 3... so not sure if anything here resolved the problem
3. Per Sog, I disconnected the resistor (mine was exactly where yours was, so thank you for the location) and hit all those connectors with a toothbrush and cleaner then reconnected.
NOTE: That thing gets frigin HOT!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ydxxmtewz0nkv ... .jpg?raw=1
That was all I did and to my surprise, thing fired up! I let her run for about 20 minutes and then turned her off and tried again after 5 minutes off and she fired right up just like she used to.
So, I am not entirely sure what resolved the issue, but thanks to all of you guys the most import thing is she starts and runs.. and I know quite a bit more about the whole fuel system.
Thank you all! I'll keep you posted in the next few weeks to see if she keeps starting right up. I think I will go ahead and order one of those resistors just because as well.
Finally a few weeks ago when I called he said he did not have time for "that car" and that he wanted me to come pick it up. I guess that is the way it goes with these E12s, most people don't want to deal with them and don't know their way around the car.
Anyway, I have a friend who let me get the car towed to his house where I would be able to work on it myself. This evening was the first chance I have had and you guys gave me a great list of items to run through to further troubleshoot. These are the steps I took:
1. Popped the hood to find that the shop had disconnected all the injectors and left the wire hanging there. So reconnected those after inspecting them per DonT's remarks. They actually looked really good and even the rubber is in good shape. I hit them with a toothbrush just for good measure and reconnected. Still no start.
2. Per socalfiver, I removed the airbox top and elbow and put key in and in run position. Pressed the flap and good a distinct click along with hearing the fuel pump. So combo relay seems to be working... put all that back together.. unfortunately I did not think to try and start the car after that and moved directly onto step 3... so not sure if anything here resolved the problem
3. Per Sog, I disconnected the resistor (mine was exactly where yours was, so thank you for the location) and hit all those connectors with a toothbrush and cleaner then reconnected.
NOTE: That thing gets frigin HOT!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ydxxmtewz0nkv ... .jpg?raw=1
That was all I did and to my surprise, thing fired up! I let her run for about 20 minutes and then turned her off and tried again after 5 minutes off and she fired right up just like she used to.
So, I am not entirely sure what resolved the issue, but thanks to all of you guys the most import thing is she starts and runs.. and I know quite a bit more about the whole fuel system.
Thank you all! I'll keep you posted in the next few weeks to see if she keeps starting right up. I think I will go ahead and order one of those resistors just because as well.
Riles - 1979 - E12 - 528i - Alpine White - 4 on the floor
It's usually the simple stuff
Glad the basics managed to do the trick. Those are the sort of issues that creep up on you without warning.
BTW: The computers are about as complex as a transistor radio. Until you get to motronic, they are quite robust and are usually not the problem. Motronic is a little more complex but still very robust. Wiring is usually the cuplrit, corrosion...Bad grounds!
A good thing to do is reach in and jiggle connections and check to see if they can be removed. You may cause an issue, but at least it is on your terms.
BTW: The computers are about as complex as a transistor radio. Until you get to motronic, they are quite robust and are usually not the problem. Motronic is a little more complex but still very robust. Wiring is usually the cuplrit, corrosion...Bad grounds!
A good thing to do is reach in and jiggle connections and check to see if they can be removed. You may cause an issue, but at least it is on your terms.
Ron Dwyer
Milwaukee, Wi
14 Audi A8L TDI
03 530i
08 F150 4X4
Milwaukee, Wi
14 Audi A8L TDI
03 530i
08 F150 4X4