1979 528i no start after cylinder head replacemnet

metsfan3321 · Post by **metsfan3321** » Sun May 17, 2015 5:05 pm

replaced the cylinder head with another style m30 head and got the conversion nut for the distributor at the dealer. The coil wire is sending spark to the plugs, I pulled all 6 plugs off, one at a time, held to the block, they all are getting spark to the spark plugs, I lined up the timing marks on the balancer, pulled both fuel lines off, car seems to be getting fuel...any suggestions. is there a kill switch that wont let these start? When u sit in the driver seat there are the two buttons by the drivers left knee.... any help would be appreciated.

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Sun May 17, 2015 7:11 pm

Dollars to donuts you have the timing off. Set it to TDC, remove the valve cover, and possibly turn the engine another 360 so #1is at TDC, pull the distributor cap and see where it's at. My guess is it's not pointing at #1 or rather the lead going to #1.

The two buttons by your knee are the power window circuit breakers.

metsfan3321 · Post by **metsfan3321** » Wed May 20, 2015 3:58 pm

thank you mike. I always set the crank pully on the o l t mark with the mark on the front cover. still no start. maybe im on the wrong stroke.... do u have a pic of where or how the distributor should go? thank you

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Wed May 20, 2015 8:37 pm

Did you set it with the valves on #1 open or closed? Remember, the cam makes one revolution for every two of the crankshaft and the distributor runs off the cam. So if you weren't looking at the valves you only have a 50-50 chance of it being right.

metsfan3321 · Post by **metsfan3321** » Thu May 21, 2015 6:03 pm

I got it started. took valve cover off, set crank at tdc(compression stroke, number one vales pointing down, but it runs realll rough... I know it could be tons of things causing this but when I have an assistant crank the engine as I move the loose distributor slowly it runs better when I get to a spot, I have them turn the engine off, I tighentd the distributor there. start it up again and it runs rough... new plugs, car, rotor, wires..... rev the engine the manifold pops...

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Thu May 21, 2015 10:56 pm

I'd guess either the timing is way off or the valves are way out of adjustment. If you are timing it by ear you want to set it where it first starts to run good at idle. Not where it runs the best, just a little more advance than running crappy. Retard it so it's running really lousy. Then slowly advance it until it is sort of ok. Stop. That's as good as you can do at idle.

metsfan3321 · Post by **metsfan3321** » Fri May 22, 2015 4:34 pm

the valves are prob out of adjustment your right... there not clacking away(there actually very quite) but I know if there too tight they can cause a rough running engine as well. ill adjust the valves and go from there. thanks

Wed Jun 03, 2015 12:21 am

Remember to check the simple things first.

I did an engine swap in my E24 and had starting problems. It was actually the wiring harness connection to the fuse box. Check the connection to the F.I. box as well.

Good luck.

metsfan3321 · Post by **metsfan3321** » Wed Jun 24, 2015 5:36 pm

what is the f.i box? it runs very rough for 30 seconds than dies. I messed with the flat head screw on the side of the throttle body ( a big no no I know) but im out of options....