need a source for rebuilt front calipers
need a source for rebuilt front calipers
Autozone doesn't carry them any more, and an online search yielded nothing, anyone have a source for rebuilt front calipers short of the $350 new ones? TIA.
...tom
and now an '80 528i, the 7th and last in the series
1981 528i, no. 6 in a series... only 270 k miles
and now an '80 528i, the 7th and last in the series
1981 528i, no. 6 in a series... only 270 k miles
Both Rockauto and Amazon show a variety of choices. The standard warning applies with both of them, make sure you are getting what you think you are getting, their listings aren't always that accurate or clear. Also beware shipping with Rockauto, they sometimes ship from out of the country and it can be as much as the part. Othertimes not, just be careful.
Mike W.
1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
When I tried to order from Rockauto as soon as I put a caliper in the basket they took it out and said the part was no longer available. Amazon gives a 1-2 month delivery time. Looks like another e12 part is going to be hard to get. Cardone will at least rebuild a caliper if you sent it to them through Autozone. Wish I'd not thrown that stack of calipers away last year...
...tom
and now an '80 528i, the 7th and last in the series
1981 528i, no. 6 in a series... only 270 k miles
and now an '80 528i, the 7th and last in the series
1981 528i, no. 6 in a series... only 270 k miles
Interesting, I hadn't seen that before. There are a couple that don't do that, but I'm not sure it's a full front set. How bad are yours? Rebuildable? Buy used and rebuild? Car part.com shows a bunch.
Mike W.
1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
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JodyStevens
- Posts: 347
- Joined: Wed Sep 12, 2012 9:58 am
- Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
Turner Motorsport uses Centric in California. They likely don't have any available, though they do list them on rockauto, but if you go through Turner, you send yours to Centric, they rebuild and send them back. For my M535i, I think I'm sending mine to a place in Utah called PMB Performance. He quoted me $300/pair without seeing them, but they split the calipers, re-plate everything in yellow zinc, replace the seals, etc. My brakes worked fine, but everything is supposed to be new I guess when it goes back together, so...
That said, it's pretty easy to do this stuff yourself with just a normal rebuild. Seal kits are still available and easy to get and with compressed air, piston removal is pretty easy.
That said, it's pretty easy to do this stuff yourself with just a normal rebuild. Seal kits are still available and easy to get and with compressed air, piston removal is pretty easy.
How to do Caliper Rebuilds
Ahh yes, I've rebuilt a few dozen over the years. Prepare to get very dirty! I usually crack the nuts holding the halves together before loosening any bolts. Just break them loose and keep them snug, you don't want to break the seal and allow air in yet.
Before you start, remove the rotor on one side and pump the brake pedal to identify the stuck piston(s). If all 4 of them move, put the rotor back on and the caliper with a bolt to hold it in place. Then do the other side.
If there is a stuck piston, put in a suitable piece of metal between the free ones to simulate the rotor and work on the other 2. Once they are all free you will eventually be able to remove them from the halves in a future step.
If you pop a piston out, then you have air in the system and it makes the other side difficult to loosen up on the car. With all pistons in both calipers free, take them all off, clean them a bit, and then split them.
I hold the halves in a vise and use channel-lock or vice-grip pliers to work the pistons out. They are cast I believe, so use only enough clamp force to hold the upper ring and NEVER the part that contacts the bore. Rock them back & forth while working them up and out. There is likely a bit of corrosion on them. If they are pitted, you have to consider new ones.
Before even starting, look up KANO labs in Nashville and order a can of Kroil, not the stuff with silicone. Kroil makes even the toughest ones loose eventually. Kroil makes any penetrating oil look like a poor substitute. I think it has a mild acid in it because rust has met its match with this stuff. Wear gloves, this stuff also tears up my skin.
Make sure you know which half goes with which one so when you go to bleed them you have the bleed screws facing UP where the air collects. Don't ask me how I know this. Take your time, take pictures before starting, look at the orientation of the pistons before starting. They can be rotated in the bore and do have a proper orientation.
The manuals say never split them, actually I have never had any issues, just make sure you don't lose the seal rings, they are square surface "O" rings. I went the route of re-plating once, but if all you are doing is driving the car, do the split, clean them thoroughly, and use a brake hone to smooth the bores. Be sure to put them back together with the proper lubricant and align the pistons. Crocus cloth is good for polishing the pistons. I have a lathe so I can chuck up the seal end and spin them. This is very dangerous, you can rip your fingers off if you are not careful. Use a tool to hold a strip of crocus cloth. (or the finest wet/dry sandpaper you can find)
And that, is how you put a bit of life back into some old calipers!
Before you start, remove the rotor on one side and pump the brake pedal to identify the stuck piston(s). If all 4 of them move, put the rotor back on and the caliper with a bolt to hold it in place. Then do the other side.
If there is a stuck piston, put in a suitable piece of metal between the free ones to simulate the rotor and work on the other 2. Once they are all free you will eventually be able to remove them from the halves in a future step.
If you pop a piston out, then you have air in the system and it makes the other side difficult to loosen up on the car. With all pistons in both calipers free, take them all off, clean them a bit, and then split them.
I hold the halves in a vise and use channel-lock or vice-grip pliers to work the pistons out. They are cast I believe, so use only enough clamp force to hold the upper ring and NEVER the part that contacts the bore. Rock them back & forth while working them up and out. There is likely a bit of corrosion on them. If they are pitted, you have to consider new ones.
Before even starting, look up KANO labs in Nashville and order a can of Kroil, not the stuff with silicone. Kroil makes even the toughest ones loose eventually. Kroil makes any penetrating oil look like a poor substitute. I think it has a mild acid in it because rust has met its match with this stuff. Wear gloves, this stuff also tears up my skin.
Make sure you know which half goes with which one so when you go to bleed them you have the bleed screws facing UP where the air collects. Don't ask me how I know this. Take your time, take pictures before starting, look at the orientation of the pistons before starting. They can be rotated in the bore and do have a proper orientation.
The manuals say never split them, actually I have never had any issues, just make sure you don't lose the seal rings, they are square surface "O" rings. I went the route of re-plating once, but if all you are doing is driving the car, do the split, clean them thoroughly, and use a brake hone to smooth the bores. Be sure to put them back together with the proper lubricant and align the pistons. Crocus cloth is good for polishing the pistons. I have a lathe so I can chuck up the seal end and spin them. This is very dangerous, you can rip your fingers off if you are not careful. Use a tool to hold a strip of crocus cloth. (or the finest wet/dry sandpaper you can find)
And that, is how you put a bit of life back into some old calipers!
Ron Dwyer
Milwaukee, Wi
14 Audi A8L TDI
03 530i
08 F150 4X4
Milwaukee, Wi
14 Audi A8L TDI
03 530i
08 F150 4X4
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PatinaBeforePolish
- Posts: 353
- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2015 1:22 pm
- Location: Baltimore, Md.
Call Marshall at 002 Salvage in Hayward. I'm sure he has resources if he doesn't have a good used set on the shelf at least he has cores. 510-782-2002 X-1
This company rebuilds them and lists stock. There's vented and non-vented. http://www.nugeon.com/contact.html
This company rebuilds them and lists stock. There's vented and non-vented. http://www.nugeon.com/contact.html
Ron Dwyer
Milwaukee, Wi
14 Audi A8L TDI
03 530i
08 F150 4X4
Milwaukee, Wi
14 Audi A8L TDI
03 530i
08 F150 4X4
Ordered a set from Summit Racing and although they didn't appear to be in stock Centric dropped shipped a set and I had them in less than a week. Guess I need to be more diligent in my searches.
...tom
and now an '80 528i, the 7th and last in the series
1981 528i, no. 6 in a series... only 270 k miles
and now an '80 528i, the 7th and last in the series
1981 528i, no. 6 in a series... only 270 k miles
FYI, if you decided to rebuild your calipers the best option is to used pressurized air IMO. I had a real hassle using needle nosed vise grips. What i did was use duct tape to tape around the caliper and one piston to the point where it will come out as far as possible without interfering with the opposing piston or coming out of the caliper all together. From there i blew pressurized air (w/ PB blaster into the chambers drain plug) until the opposing piston came out all the way, whilst, simultaneously the piston wrapped with duct tape will increase in displacement. Therefore you will have an easier time taking it out with the visegrips, due to the maximum amount the piston could come out without the short of air pressure. This was the hardest part IMO; replace to stainless steel brake lines and my car's brake performance was good as new, and well worth the price ($80) for all the calipers in the rebuild kit and 120$ for the stainless steel braided brake lines. Which the total cost roughly cost the same for 1 caliper.