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I was thinking of using this kit for a 10% power boost on a M90 3.5 (9.3:1 comp ratio) i.e. around 22 hp.

I would think place the nitrous nozzle between the AFM and throttle body, and wire the cold start injector to come on when the nitrous starts for enrichment. Any thoughts, ideas on this concerning nitrous nozzle mounting and enrichment. Thanks.

ZEX Nitrous Kit

Put your money in the bank and save it for something a little less silly.

Proper horsepower is a function of how well your engine is assembled, how well it breathes and the fuel system. Artificially charging a used engine with nitrous for 22 hp vs getting a Schrick street cam, ported and polished head, and intake manifold seems like a better route to reliable performance. I recall every time my friend blew the tank drag racing on Telegraph Road in Detroit on Saturday nights. "There goes another $40, wasn't that fun?" After blowing a hole in a piston the kit ended up in the garage.

RonDwyer wrote:Put your money in the bank and save it for something a little less silly.

Proper horsepower is a function of how well your engine is assembled, how well it breathes and the fuel system. Artificially charging a used engine with nitrous for 22 hp vs getting a Schrick street cam, ported and polished head, and intake manifold seems like a better route to reliable performance. I recall every time my friend blew the tank drag racing on Telegraph Road in Detroit on Saturday nights. "There goes another $40, wasn't that fun?" After blowing a hole in a piston the kit ended up in the garage.

It isn't silly, and there is a big difference between this supplemental kit, and dropping an engine to 7:1 compression and using a lot of nitrous to create a car just for the 1/4 mile.

Porting and polishing is a very laborious task, and a sports cam gives up low end torque for top end power, that's certainly what happens when most choose a sport cam. In addition, you have to take the cylinder head off the car to do the work, then re-assemble with new gaskets, if you don't want vacuum leaks. No thanks:!:

Actually my friend had a Keith Black Hemi in this car and over $400k into it. It was an Autorama show winner and featured in many magazines. You've obviously made up your mind that nitrous is really cool yet have no idea how to make it work on your engine. I'm not interested in starting a flame war, just pointing out the shortcomings in the engineering process. Learning how to CC a head and polish it yourself is much more satisfying than bolting on a nitrous kit that will likely grenade your motor.

Proper installation is not a matter of just porting a nozzle to a single point behind a throttle body. My friend had gas on all his toys, even a snowmobile. Proper jetting involves metering to each point of induction along with supplemental gas to avoid a super-lean condition. Super-lean = incredibly hot which means melted pistons. Getting the correct ratios is not something you buy out of a magazine, it costs money to dial it in. And yes, he grenaded the Skidoo as well.

You posted it, I commented. Don't shoot the messenger here.

RonDwyer wrote:Actually my friend had a Keith Black Hemi in this car and over $400k into it. It was an Autorama show winner and featured in many magazines. You've obviously made up your mind that nitrous is really cool yet have no idea how to make it work on your engine. I'm not interested in starting a flame war, just pointing out the shortcomings in the engineering process. Learning how to CC a head and polish it yourself is much more satisfying than bolting on a nitrous kit that will likely grenade your motor.

Proper installation is not a matter of just porting a nozzle to a single point behind a throttle body. My friend had gas on all his toys, even a snowmobile. Proper jetting involves metering to each point of induction along with supplemental gas to avoid a super-lean condition. Super-lean = incredibly hot which means melted pistons. Getting the correct ratios is not something you buy out of a magazine, it costs money to dial it in. And yes, he grenaded the Skidoo as well.

You posted it, I commented. Don't shoot the messenger here.

Yes, I do know how to make it work on my engine, just like I know I have been visiting First Fives since 1999 and that I don't appreciate your tone.

Porting and polishing is a very skilled job, remove too much material in the wrong places and you will make performance worse. Plus, it is very time consuming and on a cylinder head like a BMW, which is well done from the factory for road use, is well set in that area already.

I am talking about very mild nitrous, although you might know about Zane Coker's well modified 1980 528i turbo car with nitrous? That car is an extreme example that is directed at the 1/4 mile.

Of course you have to enrich the fuel mixture when the nitrous comes on to avoid detonation, you have to do the same with forced induction. However, with a gain of up to 35 hp I am sure even you will agree this requires less enrichment than an example where someone was using nitrous to gain 100-150 hp.

My thought on this is you could gain 20hp and some torques just by getting a well sorted stand alone engine management system, over the l-jet.. yeah it would cost a couple of dyno runs to get it all dialed in, your initial cost is probably Be double the nitrous kit, but it would be a lot safer to start.. Plus if you need more power after that the management system is more adequate to handle nitrous at that point.

If you are really going to do this, with the l-jet, then The link you sent was for a dry kit, I'd highly recommend you just buy a wet kit, because then the extra fuel is metered in proportion to the gas.

Also for either method you need a wideband to monitor what you are doing to the engine. This should be your first purchase.

And I've been fighting this pun! Nitrous is silly! just ask a dentist

Qwodracer wrote:My thought on this is you could gain 20hp and some torques just by getting a well sorted stand alone engine management system, over the l-jet.. yeah it would cost a couple of dyno runs to get it all dialed in, your initial cost is probably Be double the nitrous kit, but it would be a lot safer to start.. Plus if you need more power after that the management system is more adequate to handle nitrous at that point.

If you are really going to do this, with the l-jet, then The link you sent was for a dry kit, I'd highly recommend you just buy a wet kit, because then the extra fuel is metered in proportion to the gas.

Also for either method you need a wideband to monitor what you are doing to the engine. This should be your first purchase.

And I've been fighting this pun! Nitrous is silly! just ask a dentist

Yes, the EFI wet systems do have their own metering units, but they would need a system with a throttle position sensor, which leads back to a later style EFI.

Naturally if our cars had a mass airflow sensor it would make things very easy with the dry kit shown above.

Regardless, you are taking a lowered compression M90 with forced induction which artificially takes it above NA stock compression when driven hard. Great, I get it, but that isn't good enough in your world. There are turbo-and waste gate swaps that do the same thing. I pointed out that additional fuel is required on proper systems at the point of injection, and you confirmed that. It is just not the sort of performance accessory that enhances the longevity of any engine.

RonDwyer wrote:Regardless, you are taking a lowered compression M90 with forced induction which artificially takes it above NA stock compression when driven hard. Great, I get it, but that isn't good enough in your world. There are turbo-and waste gate swaps that do the same thing. I pointed out that additional fuel is required on proper systems at the point of injection, and you confirmed that. It is just not the sort of performance accessory that enhances the longevity of any engine.

As long as the increase in power is matched by an equal percentage increase in fuel (enrichment), things should be ok for durability. In this respect it is helpful that the kit comes with different nozzles in 5 hp increments, and the instructions sensibly suggest to step up 5 hp at a time.

Certainly the limited scope of the increase, and temporary nature of using the extra power should cause no harm, if enrichment is correctly done.

Its still just a one shot drag-racing toy. What does a Schrick cam cost these days?

Qwodracer wrote:My thought on this is you could gain 20hp and some torques just by getting a well sorted stand alone engine management system, over the l-jet.. yeah it would cost a couple of dyno runs to get it all dialed in, your initial cost is probably Be double the nitrous kit, but it would be a lot safer to start.. Plus if you need more power after that the management system is more adequate to handle nitrous at that point.

If you are really going to do this, with the l-jet, then The link you sent was for a dry kit, I'd highly recommend you just buy a wet kit, because then the extra fuel is metered in proportion to the gas.

Also for either method you need a wideband to monitor what you are doing to the engine. This should be your first purchase.

And I've been fighting this pun! Nitrous is silly! just ask a dentist

Wideband oxygen sensors? No, I don't have a cat, or any pollution controls, I am full Euro 218 hp spec and have access to 98 octane gas

tlake wrote:

Qwodracer wrote:My thought on this is you could gain 20hp and some torques just by getting a well sorted stand alone engine management system, over the l-jet.. yeah it would cost a couple of dyno runs to get it all dialed in, your initial cost is probably Be double the nitrous kit, but it would be a lot safer to start.. Plus if you need more power after that the management system is more adequate to handle nitrous at that point.

If you are really going to do this, with the l-jet, then The link you sent was for a dry kit, I'd highly recommend you just buy a wet kit, because then the extra fuel is metered in proportion to the gas.

Also for either method you need a wideband to monitor what you are doing to the engine. This should be your first purchase.

And I've been fighting this pun! Nitrous is silly! just ask a dentist

Wideband oxygen sensors? No, I don't have a cat, or any pollution controls, I am full Euro 218 hp spec and have access to 98 octane gas

I'm not worried about pollution... I meant so you can monitor your engine better, and the standalone will have closed-loop feeeback.