clutch master cylinder replacement

[night writer]

i have the clutch master completely removed from the firewall, but the hydraulic line fitting has seized on to the old unit. i can't break it loose no matter what i try, and the hose remains tethered to the engine block. the next thing is to cut it. it is a short rubber piece of hose with two hard line fittings at each end, 15 inch. i can see where the hose connects to the hard line where it is attached to a bracket that is mounted on the block. if i cut the hose, where should i cut it? can it easily be replaced? i would like to salvage the original hose because it is in fine shape, the only problem is the fitting at one end that is seized. i assume the fitting itself can be replaced. if i could get it to a bench without damaging the hose, i am sure i can break the fitting loose, replace it, and re-use the hose. any suggestions? anyone with experience doing this job?

also, if someone could describe how the rubber hose and hard line are attached together, that would be helpful. i need to break this connection apart at the block to remove the hose without damaging it. thanks for any feedback.

[Mike W.]

They can be a bear. They're set up like brake lines, the hard line "nut" turns freely on the line held captive by a double flare on said hard line. A flare nut wrench is invaluable for working on brake lines (or clutch) but sometimes even they slip.


They hold the nut on 5 points instead of 2 like an open end wrench. Past that or if it's stripped, a small 5" vice grips is probably the best tool.

[T.Hanson]

Go to a NAPA or auto parts place for vice grips that have brake fitting jaws. Top is a V shape, bottom is rounded cam. I think there's a FAQ photo in one article or another.

Not that expensive, come in different sizes. I can't over stress what a great, perfect magical tool this is for loosening rust/welded brake, hydraulic fittings without boogering the nuts. The box wrench type are fine for nicey newy, otherwise get the vice grips.

[Adam W in MN]

That's a nice tool that Mike suggested.

Why don't you just remove the line from the engine block? It's just a mounting tab and will give you more leverage to work on the hard line and flex line.

I just did mine two months ago and the hardest part was getting the right alignment of that hard line from the clutch slave so it didn't hit the underside of the car and wasn't in a funny position. I would turn it, tighten it, test fit the slave on those studs on the bell housing, pull it out, loosen, adjust hard line again, repeat. Finally got it to where I wanted, snugged the hard line to the clutch slave (because you can't tighten the hard line with the slave installed, it's too cramped!) and put her back together.

[night writer]

i finally got it removed completely yesterday, and i have ordered a replacement. i completely mauled the fitting with vice grips but it is still usable so i am re-using it for now. i am sure putting it back together will not be easy. Does any one have any advice on the next step: the re-assembly process?

[Adam W in MN]

Does any one have any advice on the next step: the re-assembly process?

did you read my post?

[Andrew in Calgary]

While I can appreciate your thriftiness, my suggestion is to not re-use the line. Apart from the booged nut, rubber hoses have a tendency to degrade over time and ultimately fail. A failed rubber clutch line is what had me driving home in rush-hour traffic without a clutch. Sure as shit, if you change out the master or slave without changing your clutch line, it'll fail in sort order out of pure spite.