Now, I'm moving on to degreasing the engine bay with degreaser and a pressure washer.
Lowering "Eleanor's" front-end. I use a floor jack on the center portion of the subframe to remove both jacks. Eleanor is still supported by the rear jacks, so sideways movement is not an issue (Yes, I am VERY careful when I use this method - I have used it on every vehicle I've worked on).
Not a great shot, but Eleanor is back on the ground. Again, I use a floor jack on the center rear subframe to remove both jacks from the rear.
Over to the engine. It's important to mount the stand mount in the proper location. There are extra bolt locations on the engine that can be used for this very purpose. Why is the location of the stand mount important? Because if the engine weight is not evenly distributed, there will be extra force needed to rotate the block during disassembly. In extreme cases, the stand could also tip over.
This is a better image that shows what bolt holes I used, and how the stand mount is aligned.
I didn't have the correct size bolts needed to secure the block to the stand mount, so I went to Lowes and picked up the correct sizes. You will need two M8-1.25 x 80 for the upper portion and two M10-1.50 x 75 for the lower. Also make sure you get 8.8 grade or higher, as this engine weighs somewhere around 400 pounds, and you will want bolts with a high shear strength.
Not sure how other people do it, but I put the engine stand on the stand mount while the engine is still suspended. I carefully lower the engine, ensuring the stand rolls back with the engine.
With the engine securely on the stand, I could remove the hoist chain. You can see the broken oil pressure switch that was difficult to photograph, due to the firewall being in the way. The male spade connector was pulled out from the switch from the chain. Fortunately, the wire was already disconnected beforehand.
The engine is securely on the stand. I was able to rotate the engine with little effort, meaning that I found the imaginary centerline of weight distribution for a fully-loaded block. Weight distribution will of course change when I remove the head and intake manifold.
It's fascinating to see issues with the engine once it's out of the car. I didn't notice how tight the #6 spark plug wire was until it was right in my face!
I began by removing the numerous zip ties that held the plug harness together. Perhaps the #6 wire was simply too short?
How the #6 wire looks in the harness.
Turns out there was PLENTY of slack in the harness... The PO must have installed the harness as it arrived from BavAuto without adjusting the wires.... Oh, and #6 wire did not feel like it was connected to the plug when I removed it.
Now, with the plug wires removed, I chose to remove both manifolds. Removing the head will come later.
I noticed the stamped writing on the right-side of the block.
On the left-side of the image, it says "12M75". I assume this is the production month and year?? If anyone knows what these letters/numbers mean, please post and let everyone know.
I've removed the exhaust manifolds and placed them in order from 1 to 6. I'm curious to hear from anyone why #1 and #4 are sooty, while the rest are ashy-white?
A closer look at #4 - 6 manifold. I have reason to believe that #6 spark plug was disconnected or had intermittent connection.
Moved over to removing the fan. Please note that the center fan nut can be removed counter-clockwise. I used an impact gun, as I there was too much slack on the pulley to remove the bolt by hand.
Removed the alternator and alternator/PS pump brackets. I always screw the bolts back in their holes to keep track of them.
The alternator, fan, and both brackets.
This fan connector is the old style. Newer years had a different fastener.
Now, with the fan bracket and pulley out of the way, I have access to the water pump.
I moved onto the crankshaft balancer and pulleys. Note that a 36mm impact socket is required to remove the center nut, which holds both the balancer and pulley setup to the crankshaft. The nut came off relatively easy - I guess I was expecting a fight with such an old engine.
The crankshaft has a very nice divot in the center in which a 3-arm puller can push from. Oddly enough, when I was hand-tightening the puller, I noticed the balancer began moving. Turns out I was able to remove the balancer by hand by merely turning the screw with my gripped palm.
Now, with the balancer removed, I was able to scrape off some smeg and behold! the BMW marque sees the light of day again!
I switched back to the water pump and removed it with no issues. Thankfully, I don't see any immediate issues, but further examination will tell...
The pump impeller was severely corroded; A sign that the coolant hasn't been changed regularly, or did not have a proper 50/50 mix ratio.
The thermostat housing is removed. Again, no issues. I do have to say that I enjoy working on engines when they are outside a vehicle. I can sit down and not have to bend over much...it's much better on my spine is what I'm trying to say.
We had a nice day yesterday, so I took the chance and rolled Eleanor outside for a degrease and pressure wash. Also, with the garage bay cleared, I could degrease the garage floor as well.
I used the Zep industrial purple cleaner in a spray bottle. I matched the cleaner to water ratio per the instructions on the bottle and went to town on spraying everything down in the engine bay. Also, I would HIGHLY suggest wearing a mask during this part, as the cleaner in vapor form is pretty nasty. I also have asthma, so this didn't do my lungs any favor. One breath of the vapor mist and I put on my 3m particulate mask for the duration of the spray-down.
The obligatory "before" picture of the engine bay. Note the amount of smeg on the AC compressor.
I've had this Ryobi electric pressure washer for a few years now and its been working great. I make sure I get out the air bubbles by running water through the nozzle before I turn it on. Running the pump without doing this step can potentially damage the moving parts, as the pump relies on continual water for cooling.
The first stage of degreasing/pressure washing. Note how the AC compressor changes color from black to a lovely silver color, LOL. Also, is that a sticker on the top that I see?
I did the same with the PS pump and holy cats! there is a metal plate on top with writing as well!!!
...I'm conveying surprised sarcasm with the last two posts for those who think I'm truly amazed...LOL
The subframe is looking MUCH better than before. I also sprayed off the sway bar and steering rods.
I'll admit, this part was surprising. I didn't know how far the blue paint went, but it appears that even the body frame was painted the same color to the firewall. A secondary project for me is to take the rusty surface portions, sand down to bare metal, and primer/paint everything back to factory color. The PO left a bottle of touchup paint in the rear toolbox that has the exact name of this color, so I know exactly what paint to order for this restoration.
The cracked sections appear to be some sort of noise/vibration damper? I would liken it to Dynamat's sound-deadening stick-on rubber pads.
Of no particular surprise, the battery floor had ample surface rust, no doubt caused by decades of intermittent acid spills, besides normal rust buildup. It is still structurally sound, so I'll sand it down also and paint it the OEM color.
Here's the steering box cleaned. I find it remarkable that BMW used this type of steering box (maybe that was the only thing available in 1976??). It looks like a "Saginaw" steering box that I have in my 04 F350 truck. Fortunately, these types of steering boxes can be tightened up by adjusting the set screw on top, should it be needed.
Also, notice the amount of surface rust on the brake booster.
The AC compressor is finally cleaned!
There is a LOT of surface rust to take care of on the subframe. I suspect I'll need to drop it and do a proper rust converter spray and rubber sealant on it for a long-lasting rust preventer. The rubber undercoating spray would be to prevent rocks from chipping the rust converter away and exposing the steel all over again.
And of course, I took the opportunity to degrease the garage floor. To the right is the 5-speed I pulled, and to the left are the exhaust pipes and the propeller shaft. On these cars, the propeller shaft is exposed to the elements, thus making the shaft susceptible to corrosion. Once I put everything back together, I'm going to steal an idea from the newer E46's, in that they use a thin sheet of aluminum that protects the shaft from undercarriage exposure. I have NEVER had a corroded prop shaft on any E46 I've worked on that had an intact aluminum sheet. Also, the aluminum serves as a heat shield for the exhaust pipes, which the E12's don't have.
This is it for now. Eleanor is back in the garage, fully dried and ready for the next steps. More to come!