Firstfives.org

Just for our amusement , thought I would start a thread on pain-in-the-arse (PITA) bolts to remove, or those really difficult to undo - or just wont

so far my no 1 - is - Filler tube to Auto transmission nut - of the 3 auto cars Ive got - 2 x I cant undo at all - stuck real tight - its like they are welded - then to make it even harder - the bolt holding the tube support bracket to the transmission - has almost no room for a 17mm open spanner to get on - + no room for a socket! -

i was dong that yesterday - so I could remove the trans oil pan and then the hydraulic body ( to clean it) - took me about an hour to loosen the 17mm bolt, and then move the pan a bit so I could swivel it out of the way - all whilst on my back. PITA

no 2 - remove or installing power steering box - with engine still in the car and exhaust manifold still on. Ive don't it once before - but i'm not sure how Im gonna get it back in a second time!- how did I get it out?

Thats a start

anyone else got a favourite dislike!

For anyone without the spin-on fan ... the fan. Need to access the front of the engine? Drain your rad and pull it out so you can take the fan off the flange. PITA, but any sane person will suffer this exactly once before upgrading.

The hood is also a pretty major PITA to remount once off. Anyone assisting by holding the hood in place will be exactly in the spot where you need to be to tighten the hinge bolts. Ropes and pulleys are your friends here, but nevertheless a PITA.

I've heard adjusting the shifter linkage with the exhaust and tranny in the car is a PITA. I must try this.

Ever try changing a brake line on a rear brake caliper? If the connector nut from the brake line where it goes into the caliper is rusty. When you try to remove it will snap the line because the rust has welded the nut to the line. Now you will have to remove the caliper and carefully try to drill out the connector without getting steel chips in the caliper! Buy a new caliper?$$$$ But wait there's more! You can't bleed the caliper because the bleeder is rusted shut? And besides that you have to replace the line from the rear caliper to the brass junction above the Diff which is also rusted. There you have only about 4" of space to get at that connection on your back! Try heat you say? Pretty close to the gas tank for that. There is a solution if you are lucky. Get a can of PB Blaster formulated for rust penetration and soak the nut overnight with the PB. Set up a vibration by tapping the connection with a hammer. That will help the penetrant get inside. Repeat this for several nights. When you go to remove the nut or bleeder gently work the nut back and forth with a "clawfoot " wrench until it is free. If you snap the line at the brass junction above the Diff you are going to have to replace the line all the way back to the Master cylinder!
Luckily I have a wrecked car that has well preserved brake lines( which is rare on a 44 year old car) that I can rob parts off.
Just another challenge to keeping an E12 on the road.

I got another one
on RHD - like we have here - remove the (brake) master cylinder - because of the exhaust - not enough room to get your hands in.

I tied to get my 19 year old son to remove the one on the 525 - as its leaking - he tried for about 2 mins and said his hands were too big and he cant do it!
PITA

Ive worked out - socket with 2 or 3 extra long drive extensions with 2 universal joints and you can just get a cordless screwdriver in the gap between the fender and the No 1 exhaust valve - just above the air con compressor.

Gary, that's a good one from the Land of Oz. It's about the same to get to the lower bolts on the #6 intake runner at the lower plenum on a LHD car for us Yanks. The brake booster makes it cozy, but a long extension and a u-joint are your friends there, too.

I got a pita nut removal.I just had to remove the heater valve after finding it was dripping while I was in there removing the pedal box and driveshaft. http://www.firstfives.org/faq/heater_va ... valve.html. I followed this thread to remove the valve without removing all the blower motors etc. I made a couple of bent wrenches and got the valve out after a few hrs. This method did work but it wasnt much fun. I dont think Id have been able to do it if the pedal box was still installed.
pic of the fun
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_304e by Dave Grayson, on Flickr

the bent wrenches
UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_3056 by Dave Grayson, on Flickr

Dave, it would have been harder still with the front seat still in the car.

Looks like a good time to teach an 8 year old how to wrench! I keep 2 of these in the shop, 1 to use and 1 recharging. They last about 3 hours on the brightest setting and come with an over the head strap. Way better in my experience than trying to place flashlights in tight places.

https://www.rei.com/product/143374/feni ... e-headlamp

Jon, it's like you're reading my mind. I just came in from the garage utterly fed up with my light situation.

528i-1981 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 23, 2020 7:57 pm Dave, it would have been harder still with the front seat still in the car.

Funny , I just saw these comments. You are so right. I also don't think it would have gone nearly as well if the pedal box and steering column were in there. again not fun I think better than pulling the whole center console out. Its done anyways and no leaks

Ya and very true about the light. Its a constant source of irritation when Im working on the car. Between poor light and needing different/ new glasses I'm using the brail mechanics method half the time.

maybeillbuyit wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 2:19 pm Ya and very true about the light. Its a constant source of irritation when Im working on the car. Between poor light and needing different/ new glasses I'm using the brail mechanics method half the time.

Yep, the first time I did a heater valve I didn't need glasses and I'm not even sure I used a flashlight. Wouldn't even think about trying to do it without either some ~28 years later. And that does get my vote for the hardest nut/bolt job, although the rear cam cover is no piece of cake either. I could swear I've gotten the old style bolt on fan clutch off without pulling the radiator though. Tight, but doable.

[quote=" I could swear I've gotten the old style bolt on fan clutch off without pulling the radiator though. Tight, but doable.
[/quote]

You know I think it is possible but only after you've taken out the rad and taken everything apart I think I realized its possible . Maybe not, I can't remember. After doing that once I said never again and swapped to the spinon style. Best upgrade there is in my opinion.. I aways suggest it