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Not worth it unless you are going to upgrade other parts to take advantage of the extra flow (headers, larger exhaust, perhaps larger injectors and upgraded fuel management like Megasquirt). i hadn't planned on the fuel system. but i will be changing the exhaust. i'm just not sure how much of it.

hi guys, its been a while but im back at it. well i need my hed rebuilt. i was wondering if you guys think its worth the extra money to have the head ported while i have it there being rebuilt. i dont have exact prices, but my vw head was 385 cleaned disassembled and reassembled with new seals and s...

hi guys, i just did a head swap with new gasket. i put everything back the way it came apart(as far as i can tell), but i can't get it to start. i get one big backfire a few seconds after cranking. i assume thats the fuel from the cold start valve. then just cranking. is it possible to get fuel for...

That sounds like the casting number for the block, which would be the same as many 3.0/3.3 engines for several years. All it would mean is it's a 89 bore with the buldges on the side to accomodate a 86MM crank, unlike the early 3.0s which could only take a 80MM crank. Now to identify what you do ha...

hi guys, the engine i just picked up has the 3.0 / 3.3 raised numbers then a M painted in white after. the block casting # is 1269607. i was told it's from an 80 733i. at realoem i get a no # exists, and a google gives me a 82-83 745 block #. i just wanted to know if anyone can help me understand wh...

Hello !? Read the Ignition Timing FAQ. There's a nice big fat color photo of the distributor with numbers on the wires. My 635, '79-'81 528i's all run real nice using those numbers. hi guys, i'm less concerned about the plug wires as they are the same as when i had the car running. are the valves o...

alotawatts wrote:Are you using a Haynes Manual diagram.....for the plug wire locations to distributor ? Ignore the USA Model diagram.

actually i am. i even had them this way before i took it apart. it seemed to run fine. whats the correct way then?

thank you

i don't want to sound stupid, but top dead center for the head is with both valves closed on #1 correct? and the the crank on the oIt mark with the #1 piston all the way at the top? i did replace the injectors with good used ones also, but i just don't see that as the problem. any help or direction...

hi guys, i just did a head swap with new gasket. i put everything back the way it came apart(as far as i can tell), but i can't get it to start. i get one big backfire a few seconds after cranking. i assume thats the fuel from the cold start valve. then just cranking. is it possible to get fuel for ...

socalfiver wrote:The problem turned out to be a failed Relief Relay.

was it up under the zipper area?

I found the sunroof relay up in the zippered ceiling panel. Then I figured out that my heater fan wasn't working. A trip to the fuse box shows that they both get power from the same bus. I guess I need to open the fuse box and fixure out why that circuit is dead. uh oh, that sucks. well good catch ...

Where is the relay located on '80 and '81? My sunroof just stopped responding to the switch all together. I use it every day, and it normally works perfect. yesterday, though, I get no response from the switch. i'm not sure on the relay, but the fuse is in the main box in the engine compartment on ...

after all i want the extra 20-30hp. but i need to get the car on the road. plus i want to make sure the 3.3 is in good shape first. I don't always agree with BMWs HP ratings, but an '80, 3.3 is rated at a whopping 174HP, or a whole 5 more than the 2.8. :shock: Torque, which is significant, is up 18...

Hi Joe, I agree with Mike - there is absolutely no problem to put a "fresh" head to a worn engine block. But... Before you do this, maybe it is a good idea to check the compression on your spare 3.3 engine, if it is only 75-90k miles. Just for reference, measure the compression of the old...

awesome, i was hoping that was the case. gonna go get the gasket set and put it together.