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socalfiver wrote:All fixed.

Traced the problem to a brittle impulse trigger wire. It had cracked and shorted internally. Depending on the position of the wire, it would sometimes allow the engine to sputter.

I've temporarily replaced the wire with a heavy duty shielded wire from a set of RCA cables. I'm looking for a shielded wire that can endure some engine bay heat.

If you can give me a little more specifics on this wire...I can check if I have it for you. I have my parts car motor on a stand in my garage...and the wiring harness.

If the gauge of the RCA cable is large enough to carry the signal (it probably is) and the ignition works, then all you need to do is insulate it from engine heat, cold, dirt with some external wire wrap. Just use a type of wire loom (Radio Shack) to wrap the cable. They make a nice thick type that winds around a wire harness that I would check out - like this. Then you're good to go.

Because the RCA cable was thinner gauge than the original, I made a "siamese twins" cable. It's 2 identical lengths of the shielded wire that run parallel to each other and share the load by being joined to each other at both ends. Works great.

All I need now is some heat shielding as Lenny recommends to make it semi-permanent.

Blaise- It's the wire with a plastic plug on the end that plugs into the distributor. It disappears into the harness to end up soldered to the ICM plug. It's bright green.

socalfiver wrote:Blaise- It's the wire with a plastic plug on the end that plugs into the distributor. It disappears into the harness to end up soldered to the ICM plug. It's bright green.

Okay, I checked and do not have what you need. I had saved the ECU/fuel injection harness and it does not appear to be a part of it. Sorry.

Oven wire. You can get it at Ace. Not too long ago I had to fix an old electric oven, I don't think it is oven specific, but is insulated for high heat. I believe I got 14 gauge.