Crank nut size

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 2:50 pm

Realoem.com only says flange nut. Anyone know the size of the front crankshaft (pulley) nut ? The 300 pound torque bomb one.

Why does Haynes say to mark the pulley hub in relation to the harmonic balancer. If it matters, I'm screwed.

Finally, is the only way to loosen, tighten the crank nut by jamming a lever into the starter ring gear ? If the engine is in the car, what happens to 4th gear with the parking brake on ?

Yes, Mr. Boner put the A/C compressor adjuster bar on the bolt that won't come out without removing the harmonic balancer, not the flat alternator bar.

*%#@! Mommy.

Techboy · Post by **Techboy** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 3:25 pm

The nut should be 36mm BMW and other companies like Sir Tool make a crank holder that bolts onto the hub and braces against the subframe. The BMW version works well.

alotawatts · Post by **alotawatts** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 6:55 pm

T.Hanson wrote: Finally, is the only way to loosen, tighten the crank nut by jamming a lever into the starter ring gear ?

That should be your last resort.
Use long pipe/cheater bars or an impact wrench.

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 7:06 pm

I am frustrated, no offense to helpful advisors.

The engine is in the car, driveline atteched. The Bav Auto crank holder bar looks like it bolts the rear of the crank, trans removed. Even with the radiator removed ( not the a/c radiator ) no standard pistol impact wrench will fit.

Haynes says to use something to hold the starter ring gear. Is that nut so powerful it will turn the drive train in 4th gear, parking brake on ?

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Sat Jul 11, 2009 11:01 pm

It helps to do a Google search of past posts for any problem. Darned if it doesn't turn out the harmonic balancer and pulley hub may be removed without touching the nasty nut, if I'd bothered to pay attention.

Phew.

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 12:52 am

T.Hanson wrote:It helps to do a Google search of past posts for any problem. Darned if it doesn't turn out the harmonic balancer and pulley hub may be removed without touching the nasty nut, if I'd bothered to pay attention.

Phew.

Half right. The balancer yes, the hub, no. The balancer unbolts from the hub with 8 bolts. The hub is attached to the crank by that infamous 36MM nut. The only reason you might need to mark the relationship of the hub to the balancer is it only goes on one way. Very early cars, say E3's, didn't have a locating pin, later ones do. Regardless, if you can get all 8 bolts in, you're good, if not, move it.

YouTube · Post by **Peter Florance** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 7:51 am

T,
I have the flywheel lock tool; I can lend you if you want it.

If you don't have AC, it's easier to pull the radiator and use very large impact

Of course to change the bracket bolt, pulling the 8 balancer bolts will do it
Wish I had read this earlier to save some heartburn...

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Sun Jul 12, 2009 11:05 am

All is back on track. The silly alternator bracket bolt is in a bad place, but I don't suppose the engineers thought the bracket would be messed with by more than three people in fifty years.

Even though I just installed the hub/balancer/pulley, the balancer didn't exactly slide off the hub. Took a winky dink old wheel puller I had and patient tapping. It is interesting to see the eight bolt holes are far from symmetrical, only lining up in one position. The advised marking must be to save the time rotating them around if it's not possible to look from the front all at once.

Thanks all,

Firstfives.org

Crank nut size

Crank nut size

Re: Crank Nut Size

Re: Crank nut size