Firstfives.org

In order to work on the front of the engine ('81 E-12), I disassembled everything relating to the hood. I went too far with this step. What's a
good way to retorque the torsion tube and reassemble? Thanks. I should have just taken out the eight bolts that hold the hood and left the
tube alone.

After changing out the auto for a five speed two years ago and driving it for a mile and then parking it, the clutch will now not disengage. Everything worked great, back then. New slave, master, disc, pressure plate, TO bearing, pivot pin, rear seal, etc. Tranny shifts fine with engine off. Will ...

It's probably the fuel pressure regulator. If it's the original one, it's time.

This could be a badly worn driveshaft centering sleeve. The rubbery piece in the very front of the shaft. The nosecone. I've seen 'em loose on my jobs. Just learned they're available. $12 part. Fits both e12 and e28. part #26117526611

You've looked at both sides of both rubbers? There's not a single tear on either side? Stuck a bolt in each and wanged 'em around bending, stressing the rubber? Then, they've already been replaced. Buy the big puller kit that's available. Fits everything. Beautiful ten or twelve piece kit. Fits ...

Usually that means a bad center bearing on the driveshaft. Vibration on starting off and quiet at speed. But you say it's all new down there. I wonder if the slight pre load forward on the center bearing was accomplished. Another idea, I'd look at the rear subframe bushings. Is the rear helping to ...

I could sell one of mine. What year are we dealing with?

Ahh, tools. Steel tools. Old steel tools. Keep the crescent wrench in the rollaway for when the lawn mower breaks down way far away from the shop. Fixing German machines is akin to acquiring more and more tools. You're saving $ big time doing it yourself. You don't have to trust a stranger with your ...

If you're absolutely sure of the valve gap (you rotated the engine completely four times checking each one twice). Take the fan off. Clean the rim of the harmonic balancer, see the marks. Line up all the marks with the cam gear. Ahh, heaven. I always change out the chain ($50 at the dealer with your ...

They're pre-bent.

Well, what'd you set the valves at? They were cold, right? I had this problem with a 533. Previous owner had set two valves at .007. Car had zip power when warm. Put 'em at .009 intake, .010 exhaust, wonderful stump pulling torque.
Also, if the car has to roll backward, just put it in reverse ...

Times two.

Heat the head if you're driving the long rods out. I bought two identical hot plates at Sears. Heats it in minutes, the rods practically float out.

I always put in a new tank. It's $360 at the dealer. The Euros all need it. The base of the three vent pipes are always toast. You need to trim the trans ocean hold downs to fit the new one. The new tanks are a skosh different. There's these tabs, that, get in the way of the trans Atlantic hold ...

Yea, I did that, it's all quiet back there. $Mucho money$ gone. I could change 'em out with used pumps and pump out the bad gas and replace with fresh. Then soak the new pumps in lacquer thinner, try to free 'em up. Just want to be able to move the car under it's own power, it's kind of tight around ...