head issues: thrust plate and chain position

CBradio · Post by **CBradio** » Fri Oct 11, 2013 11:53 am

Let me start by saying that this car has taught me that most mechanics cannot be trusted; I have endeavored to do all I can on my own and have learned a lot.

Since I got the car, these NYC mechanics have been doing things half-assed and just causing me more problems because they are doing everything wrong.

I recently decided to replace my headgasket myself.

I brought the head to a machine shop to get cleaned, etc.
I got it back, I installed with a torque wrench, etc..
I attached the exhaust manifold with copper nuts and all. So far so good, until:

I noticed the 'thrust plate' in front of the cam shaft was missing.
I ordered a new plate for 10 bucks on clearance.

When I went to install the plate today, I put one bolt in by hand to screw it down, but there was some resistance.

I noticed one of the screws would not stop turning. I am 99% certain the mechanic cross threaded the screw, or somebody did.

The screw does stay in place however; I put some blue loctite on it and I'm hoping it will be okay.

So first question: does anybody know what this thrust plate is for?
Am I asking for trouble with this loctite solution?
What would have happened if I would not have installed this plate?

My second issue has to do with chainring/chain position.
Before I removed the head, I zip tied the upper timing chainring rings to the chain.

When I went to reattach it to the flange on the head, I noticed that there is a little dot on the ring that lines up with the flange on the head, except, it didn't line up. The "protruding dot" goes into the one of the empty spaces in the flange, so there is no interference.

I noticed however: the chainring teeth don't line up the same with each bolt hole; the net effect seems to me that if the ring is installed wrong with this dot not lined up with the flange exactly,
then the whole thing will be off by 1/4 of a tooth or so.

I am assuming either:

I have the camshaft in the complete wrong position, but I don't think this is the case. Both lobes on cylinder 1 are pointed DOWN. The camshaft "woodruff" key is on the underside of the of the camshaft, not the top. Am I backwards here?

OR

is it that whoever did the last head job before I owned the car (because somebody did) just put the ring on without thinking much about it.

Obviously, I want to do it right.
Do I just leave it as it was installed before? I have marked with a marker the where it was. Or do I need to get it in the correct position?

Any help appreciated as always.

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Fri Oct 11, 2013 12:43 pm

http://www.malloc.nl/BMW/635CSi/pages/en/index.html

https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/index.htm

If I was sure any shop messed up something they did, I'd make a rumpus. At least to give somebody the opportunity to fess up, avoid spending time in hell, perhaps try to keep your business.

If said fastener can possibly come loose and find a new place to rest, I'm sure if it was my engine it would be a very expensive place.

CBradio · Post by **CBradio** » Fri Oct 11, 2013 12:59 pm

Thanks for that info.
I did call up the shop and the guy told me I need the plate on there, that they were surprised they didn't put it on, and that I should bring it down for them to do it.

I already torqued the head down and put the manifolds on-
I'm certain one of the guys in the shop probably used a drill to screw the plate on and cross threaded it-

I'd make more of a fuss but I am just so disgusted with the level of service 'round these parts, I'd rather just learn to do whatever I can myself--

Its really hard to find a good mechanic around here-
It seems 95% don't even use proper english,
its difficult to communicate with them and they think they know it all.

I will let you guys know how it goes!

CBradio · Post by **CBradio** » Fri Oct 11, 2013 1:15 pm

PS OKAY:
I HAVE RESOLVED THE SECOND ISSUE!! THANK YOU!!

The pictures on the e24 manual were very helpful. Whoever installed the head last time did not line up the dowel pin and had everything off by one turn counterclockwise.

Thanks again.

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Fri Oct 11, 2013 5:37 pm

The cars being 32 years old can mean the mechanics that knew them have retired. That leaves those with the inclination to look at resource materials for guidance, or their basic, " Righty tighty, lefty loosey, experience.

BMW dealer shops are probably the best chance for enthusiasm and caring, to get what you will pay (larger) for. Next, an independent shop found by searching, that specializes in older BMW's, with proof on their hoists and customers willing to tell you they're good.

But if you have the time, (best to have an extra car to avoid pressures), a basic set of tools to add any special ones to, patience, a tech manual, welcome to the journey club.

Speaking for myself it's a kick to clean and assemble a pile of old crunchy junk, and have it be a good running engine again.

CBradio · Post by **CBradio** » Fri Oct 11, 2013 6:01 pm

I am like you: I enjoy working on the car, and find I can do most things with the right tools; I have the haynes and chilton (chilton not so great) manuals...

I also knew of the manual site you sent me but not the e24 site...

So far so good, but it is my daily... I've been biking all summer trying to get this head business in order!!

Anyways, thanks to this site in large part, I've learned a great deal.

So now I'm doing all my own work, where possible.

Thanks again for the help!