Hello all. I recently bought a 63k 1979 528i. Love it!
In searching around for a few parts i found a non-runner twin. Its a complete 150k 4 speed car and the blue interior is in great condition. The silver paint needs to be re-shot but I can do that myself.
The owner is not a mechanic and is motivated to sell. I don't look forward to diagnosing what I suspect is an EFI issue.
1. Should I look to convert it back to carbs? Cost estimate?
2. Or is it a better candidate for a parts car? I would prefer not to part it out...
3. Considering what you now know, what is a fair price for this car in current condition?
Thanks - Dickson
Should I buy a non runner 79 528i?
Anything is worth what you are willing to pay for it, and not one penny more. Perhaps you will see lovely stock examples of '79 to '81 528i's for $6,000. Ten thousand, if still in the wrapper. Both amounts are reasonable if you intend to buy and build an $800, $3,000 car to like new specs.
The monster is rust. Any rust. Back when, they didn't have the prevention technology. If you are seeing bubbles and holes, they are sure to be all over, in the floors, shock towers, places where they don't sell panels for patching.
No big deal if you just don't care and drive it, or use it as a parts car. If you think you can fix/paint rust to make it a Foosemobile,...great. You'll have a $20,000 car to sell for $3,000.
The trick is in wanting to learn to do things yourself. Make it a hobby instead of golf. If that happens, if you are willing to buy or have the tools, can put the hulks where you don't have to get things working by Monday to get to work, I say it's fun.
With few exceptions (blown engine, transmission, differential), the quality of the component parts is astounding, to make fixing most things very doable. Some large heavy things will need friends, probably a shop with a hoist. Keep in mind thirty years has retired most BMW techs that knew the cars, so all shops will be fixing things, charging you, while reading the same web or paper manuals, or this site.
Great, nice, patient crazy people who love these cars and helping others who share the sickness.
If I was me, I'd just haul off and trouble shoot the injection, not fool with carbs. Look at the wiring harnesses, clean everything, see what needs replacing. If all it is is dirty, no mouse poops or nibbling, probably less than $400 for gaskets, hoses, fuel lines, oil, filters, etc.
The monster is rust. Any rust. Back when, they didn't have the prevention technology. If you are seeing bubbles and holes, they are sure to be all over, in the floors, shock towers, places where they don't sell panels for patching.
No big deal if you just don't care and drive it, or use it as a parts car. If you think you can fix/paint rust to make it a Foosemobile,...great. You'll have a $20,000 car to sell for $3,000.
The trick is in wanting to learn to do things yourself. Make it a hobby instead of golf. If that happens, if you are willing to buy or have the tools, can put the hulks where you don't have to get things working by Monday to get to work, I say it's fun.
With few exceptions (blown engine, transmission, differential), the quality of the component parts is astounding, to make fixing most things very doable. Some large heavy things will need friends, probably a shop with a hoist. Keep in mind thirty years has retired most BMW techs that knew the cars, so all shops will be fixing things, charging you, while reading the same web or paper manuals, or this site.
Great, nice, patient crazy people who love these cars and helping others who share the sickness.
If I was me, I'd just haul off and trouble shoot the injection, not fool with carbs. Look at the wiring harnesses, clean everything, see what needs replacing. If all it is is dirty, no mouse poops or nibbling, probably less than $400 for gaskets, hoses, fuel lines, oil, filters, etc.
Thanks T.
The car has supposedly minor rust bubbles behind the wheel well. It's probably safe to assume much more that is not visible.
My buddy and I share a small hobbyist garage for weekend fun. We can weld, do bodywork, and paint so truly minor rust is not an issue.
I'll go check it out next weekend. Thanks - Dickson.
The car has supposedly minor rust bubbles behind the wheel well. It's probably safe to assume much more that is not visible.
My buddy and I share a small hobbyist garage for weekend fun. We can weld, do bodywork, and paint so truly minor rust is not an issue.
I'll go check it out next weekend. Thanks - Dickson.
Look under the bonnet around the shock towers, in the trunk, the floors in the front corners where the sunroof drains can leak. The trunk seals leak above the tail lights, sometimes bad enough to run through the trunk, under the rear seat into the foot wells.
I don't doubt your body wizardry, but the floor panels were never available and they are stamped with ridges. Thus, only for resale purposes, looking up from underneath or under the carpet would probably show the patch welds and send the buyer to a rust free example, or offer you a hundred bucks.
I don't doubt your body wizardry, but the floor panels were never available and they are stamped with ridges. Thus, only for resale purposes, looking up from underneath or under the carpet would probably show the patch welds and send the buyer to a rust free example, or offer you a hundred bucks.
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BimBim2oo2
- Posts: 268
- Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2012 12:49 pm
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Pics would help but to give you an idea I bought my 528 for 1200 bucks. Everything was shot in it except the motor and trans was fresh. Over the course of the year I prolly put about 2k into it. Keep in mind the majority of the parts I had were not needed more so a want I.E. euro trim, wheels, suspension. If you can get the car cheap and are mechanically inclined id say go for it at the very least you will have a reliable DD after it is all said in down.
"The greatest gifts in life are the one's we give ourselves"

1980 M535
2012 Prius
2014 Focus ST
2013 KLR650

1980 M535
2012 Prius
2014 Focus ST
2013 KLR650
- JodyStevens
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- Location: Nova Scotia, Canada