complicated relationship with the ms.

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neetyrom
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 4:38 pm

Post by neetyrom »

so i tried removing the pitman arm from the center link to straighten out the box... remind me how i did this last time. Do you completely disassemble the entire suspension or do you just take the centerlink off the pitman with the tie rod still intact to the centerlink. I tried hammering out just one side of the center link but it wont budge. Suggestions?
Freddy
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Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2010 12:01 pm

Post by Freddy »

Oh boy, Pandoras' (steering) Box... lol. The center tie rod can be separated from the pitman arm without taking the rest apart. The trick is separating that joint and saving the protective rubber boot and the socket part of the ball joint. I have a BMW ball joint press that works great on the tie rods, but I think I had trouble getting it to work on this joint. I think you need some kind of press - or heat and tapping method, but a press is the best bet to save the joint. Tapping on the pitman arm at the joint sometimes works. Tapping AND press... anyway, I just keep trying all these things over and over and it seems it will NEVER let go until it suddenly just sort changes its mind. May the force be with you...
neetyrom
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 4:38 pm

Post by neetyrom »

jesus Christopher Columbus, I hope I NEVER have to do this again hahaha. Freddy, i banged it up so bad i had to get a new center link (don't ask). My center link didn't have ball joints, so i got one with ball joints, adjusted pandora's box to align properly with the steering wheel. Connected everything back up, took it for a spin, (Pending new tires and an alignment) it drives with absolutely no play whatsoever, but it does pull to the right and i have to keep the steering wheel pointed about 20 degrees to the left to keep it going straight. Im hoping the alignment and tires will take care of that. Anyways, if anyone has play in their car at freeway speeds, highly suggested operation. Im out, and glad that is over with.

p.s. p.b. blaster, a day's time, and a pickle fork, that bolt will slip right out.
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Falkenberg
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Post by Falkenberg »

I hope the play isn't just gone because it pulls to the right :)
1961 Simson AWO sport (Brasoveanca)
1968 BMW 114 2002
1976 BMW E12 528 (Malèna)
1987 Kawasaki GPz900r
1996 Moto Guzzi V75 PA NT
neetyrom
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 4:38 pm

Post by neetyrom »

O_o
okay bear with me on this gents, I am novice at 21 years young trying to survive. Just got near tires and an alignment. There seems to be no play or pull but my steering wheel is not congruent with the rest of the steering. Its shifted like 30 degrees left when im driving straight (no play). but when im parked the steering wheel magically aligns itself with the wheels. I don't want to play around with the steering box anymore unless I have to, because I hear that power steering leaks are an apparent consequence.
Last edited by neetyrom on Wed Dec 30, 2015 1:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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CabbageFumes
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Location: Funkytown

Post by CabbageFumes »

What Freddy says is helpful, but 1/4 turn is way too much, as you'll see. You only need to turn it maybe a 1/8-1/16 before it locks. There is very little clearance, and if you tighten it any more than that it will make the box work too hard, causing it to fail early. That screw only works to help return to center the box and steering wheel. It's a notch in an otherwise flat surfaced wheel. Tightening the screw will cause it to drag against the flat of the wheel, giving the illusion that all the play is gone, but as I said above, it's just using the screw for temporary stability. It's possible that you just need a box with less wear. Sorry, don't mean to crap on your newfound no-play steering, it's just the reality of it.
Fiver 06/87
Sixteen-O-Two-er 11/69
neetyrom
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Dec 08, 2013 4:38 pm

Post by neetyrom »

problem all fixed. just had a mechanic take the steering wheel out and install it properly aligned with the rest of the steering/suspension. : )
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