Last fall the '79 driver's window pulled out of the rear track bracket to be closed until warmer, now. Now the switch button(s) won't work to lower the window(s) to glue the window back in the track.
Door panel is off, and lower dash kick panel. Replaced the under dash relay, tried two alternative driver switch button units, cycled the center lock button. All connectors look clean, all fuses clean, visually good.
Ignition key on, individual door switches don't work either.
Swinging for a simple easy fix reply, ( Check this ), but I suspect I'm in for Auto Electrics One, VU meters, reading wiring diagrams,...
Electrics,... windows.
More likely, removing motor assembly (not terribly difficult but tricky to get in/out of the door), then partial disassembly of motor casing to expose the winding to be able to reorient the winding in its normal travel.
What usually happens (to me) is this. The regulator with the motor assembly has 'stops' at the end of travel in both directions. Originally a piece of rubber attached to an adjustable bolt with a locknut that physically prevents the regulator from travelling any further (even with voltage applied, that's why the door switches are momentary only).
With age, the stops break, crumble, get misadjusted allowing too much travel in a direction. Then the electrical contacts for the motor and normal travel are exceeded and there is no more contact, so the motor is 'stuck' in a position. Check to see if this is the case. If so, remove the plastic casing from the motor, wind it by hand in the direction of travel away from where it is. Put it all back together. Create new 'stops' so it doesn't happen again. Readjust the travel with the adjuster and locknut so the window closes fully. Bench test the assembly with leads from the battery reversing the leads for opposite travel.
Or, the motor is fried, but they are typically robust and long-lived unless continuous voltage was applied to burn a winding.
More a mechanical excercise than an electrical nightmare.
What usually happens (to me) is this. The regulator with the motor assembly has 'stops' at the end of travel in both directions. Originally a piece of rubber attached to an adjustable bolt with a locknut that physically prevents the regulator from travelling any further (even with voltage applied, that's why the door switches are momentary only).
With age, the stops break, crumble, get misadjusted allowing too much travel in a direction. Then the electrical contacts for the motor and normal travel are exceeded and there is no more contact, so the motor is 'stuck' in a position. Check to see if this is the case. If so, remove the plastic casing from the motor, wind it by hand in the direction of travel away from where it is. Put it all back together. Create new 'stops' so it doesn't happen again. Readjust the travel with the adjuster and locknut so the window closes fully. Bench test the assembly with leads from the battery reversing the leads for opposite travel.
Or, the motor is fried, but they are typically robust and long-lived unless continuous voltage was applied to burn a winding.
More a mechanical excercise than an electrical nightmare.
HTH
'80 528i
'80 528i
Step one, no windows work. Key on, master driver door center switch in or out. If that is a consequence of the driver window motor, or any motor, behaving as you describe.
Step two, I have extra motors. Would you recommend simply replacing the (driver window) motor before undertaking the repair exercise ?
Step two, I have extra motors. Would you recommend simply replacing the (driver window) motor before undertaking the repair exercise ?
The two circuit breakers on the left lower kick panel are connected with the double red and double green wires on the lower male plugs. The single red wire connects to the circuit breaker on top of the double green wires. The single green wire connects to the circuit breaker on top of the double red wires.
Check both breaker buttons pushed in.
Check both breaker buttons pushed in.
I've overhauled innumerable windows over the years starting with the sardine cans on my 2000CS.
First: Make yourself a jumper tool with a spade connector on one end and an alligator clip on the other. use suitably heavy gauge wire for the task. Mine is 15 feet long. This is your known positive source. Unhook BOTH wires on the motor while in the door. Connect the spade of your new alligator tool to the motor and the alligator to the battery + terminal.
Take a similar second tool with shorter wire and plug it into the other terminal on the motor. Once this tool finds a suitable ground the motor will work. Reversing these leads changes the direction of travel on the motor.
Keep your fingers out of the door while you test the operation. You can scissor off a finger.
Verify the motor works and then troubleshoot backwards to see why you are not getting power or ground to the problem window. Is your childproof switch bad?
Switches can be overhauled.
The motors can be taken apart! Sometimes the commutator needs cleaning and the spaces between the windings cleaned with a scraper. If the brushes are gone, you need a new motor Also, the grease inside gets to be like abrasive paste eventually, your window tracks will appreciate being completely cleaned and lubricated with fresh lithium grease.
BTW: E28 motors are the gold standard in power with their enhanced magnet design.
This test wire has been without a doubt my most important troubleshooting tool in my entire toolbox.
Take your trusty Haynes manual to a Kinkos and get an 11 x 17 copy or larger of the wiring diagram made. Mine is stapled to my garage door.
First: Make yourself a jumper tool with a spade connector on one end and an alligator clip on the other. use suitably heavy gauge wire for the task. Mine is 15 feet long. This is your known positive source. Unhook BOTH wires on the motor while in the door. Connect the spade of your new alligator tool to the motor and the alligator to the battery + terminal.
Take a similar second tool with shorter wire and plug it into the other terminal on the motor. Once this tool finds a suitable ground the motor will work. Reversing these leads changes the direction of travel on the motor.
Keep your fingers out of the door while you test the operation. You can scissor off a finger.
Verify the motor works and then troubleshoot backwards to see why you are not getting power or ground to the problem window. Is your childproof switch bad?
Switches can be overhauled.
The motors can be taken apart! Sometimes the commutator needs cleaning and the spaces between the windings cleaned with a scraper. If the brushes are gone, you need a new motor Also, the grease inside gets to be like abrasive paste eventually, your window tracks will appreciate being completely cleaned and lubricated with fresh lithium grease.
BTW: E28 motors are the gold standard in power with their enhanced magnet design.
This test wire has been without a doubt my most important troubleshooting tool in my entire toolbox.
Take your trusty Haynes manual to a Kinkos and get an 11 x 17 copy or larger of the wiring diagram made. Mine is stapled to my garage door.
Ron Dwyer
Milwaukee, Wi
14 Audi A8L TDI
03 530i
08 F150 4X4
Milwaukee, Wi
14 Audi A8L TDI
03 530i
08 F150 4X4