Replacing Front End Bushings

canada karl · Post by **canada karl** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 1:46 pm

I'm going to replace the bushings on the front axle and the sway bar on the 76 530i. Any advice on problems I could run into? Thanks Karl

canada karl · Post by **canada karl** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 4:24 pm

Looking at the Realoem front axle /wishbone diagram....Is it possible to get the old "set rubber mounting bushing" out of the front axle support and then be able to pull the "tension strut" out of the "wishbone" and then change the
outer wishbone bushing? Or does the entire wishbone have to come off?

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 8:29 pm

A hydraulic press and appropriate lubrication on the bushings is how they were built in the first place. Getting the old ones out is no fun, a drill press and lots of chunking out the old rubber in pieces is preferable to a torch which means you should re-paint or have them powdercoated. If new ones are available already bushed, that is an alternative.

I think silicone spray is what I would use.

RandyM · Post by **RandyM** » Wed Jun 22, 2016 9:57 pm

I think you don't have an option. Removing the wishbone is simple and you should check the ball joint anyway. I went ahead and replaced the control arms/wishbones because the ball joints were shot and the new ones came with bushings installed. Rockauto.com has Moog brand for $30 ea.
struggling with the RnR set rubber mountings is more than enough hassle. While you're down there, Turner Motorsport has sway bar links with urethane bushings for $14 if I remember right.

Problems: getting a wrench on the sway bar bracket bolts. Solution, use the wrench in the tool kit. and of course you need the "special tool" for bushing removal and install. Pretty sure there's a write up in the FAQ

CabbageFumes · Post by **CabbageFumes** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 11:07 am

Getting the subframe bushings out is easy. Remove the tension rods, then use the rods as pry bars by inserting them through the front of the bushing, then leverage it out by pushing the rod to one side and it should pop right out. You really need a press and some silicone spray to get the new ones in. You can build a jig with a socket large enough to fit on the backside, some large washers, and double locked nuts on threaded rod to drive it through. Done lots, always works. Or, get a bearing press kit, same principle.

canada karl · Post by **canada karl** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 4:10 pm

[quote="CabbageFumes"]Getting the subframe bushings out is easy. Remove the tension rods, then use the rods as pry bars by inserting them through the front of the bushing, then leverage it out by pushing the rod to one side and it should pop right out. You really need a press and some silicone spray to get the new ones in. You can build a jig with a socket large enough to fit on the backside, some large washers, and double locked nuts on threaded rod to drive it through. Done lots, always works. Or, get a bearing press kit, same principle.[/quote

Damn... I never thought to check Rockauto. Could have bought the whole control arm. I bought just the bushings so now I have to use them. I got one subframe bushing out with a large C clamp. I'll try your method on the other one.
With the strut hanging free attached at the top is it possible to remove the "3 bolts at the bottom of the strut at the ball joint" and free up the control arm? Not sure if that part is under pressure? That way I can take the control arm to a friend with a press.

CabbageFumes · Post by **CabbageFumes** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 5:52 pm

The three bolts under the strut housing aren't under any tension so yes take them out and release the steering arm. It helps if you do it with an impact wrench to break them loose.

canada karl · Post by **canada karl** » Thu Jun 23, 2016 9:02 pm

CabbageFumes wrote:The three bolts under the strut housing aren't under any tension so yes take them out and release the steering arm. It helps if you do it with an impact wrench to break them loose.

Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to order the Moog complete control arms with ball joints and put the bushings I ordered on Ebay. The ball joints are more than likely due for replacement anyway. Real Oem had the control arms as N/A!

maxmadill76530i · Post by **maxmadill76530i** » Tue Jan 31, 2017 6:54 pm

Do you guys have any opinions on the Moog brand control arms vs the genuine BMW ones? The Moog brand is alot cheaper and I don't see how they could be of any less quality except possibly the bushings they use.

canada karl · Post by **canada karl** » Tue Jan 31, 2017 7:03 pm

look like they'll do the job OK.

Robert Bondi · Post by **Robert Bondi** » Sun Feb 12, 2017 6:38 pm

I did the entire front end 3-4 years ago. I believe you're forced to buy the entire front control arm with bushing these days. FWIW, the only front end pieces I couldn't separate on my own were the press fits between the control arms and the steering arm levers. The weird curvature of those steering arms levers makes it unlikely the average pullers and ball joint separators in a service kit can be used. I took the pair of steering levers arms still attached to their control arms to the local indep BMW service guy and he popped them for $50 cash. The blue BMW factory manual calls for a Kukko extractor, I believe, to separate this joint I'm describing. Good luck with it.

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