Help with Front Bearing INSTALL
Help with Front Bearing INSTALL
I tore my bearings out of my 81 528i about 2 years ago. Now I cant seem to recall how to put it back together. Really I only have one question. When i install the inner bearing, there is a lot of space between the bearing itself and the end cap. Do I fill that all full of grease to fill the void? ant then how do I know how far to push the hub back on the shaft? Do I just put it on and hand tighten the king nut before inserting the cotter pin? Also, if you know where I can find a good LEFT Protector Plate aka Dust Shield, minw is pretty thin thanks to rust. (I guess thats actually three questions) Thanks a million all!!!
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PatinaBeforePolish
- Posts: 393
- Joined: Sun Jan 18, 2015 1:22 pm
- Location: Baltimore, Md.
Jcat,
If not already, I recommend replacing inner and outer bearings as well as seals on both sides. Also use a grease with a drop point of at least 500. The drop point is the temperature at which the grease loses its viscosity and becomes liquid. I use Red Line synthetic CV-2 which is >800.
The manual doesn't specify how much grease to load in the cavity. My guess is the shape of the cavity encourages the grease to shift outward towards the bearings when the wheels are spinning so I apply liberal amounts in that area.
The process to tighten the bearings is 2 turns of the castle nut while turning the wheel, then back off almost completely then tighten to about 2 ft. lbs. of torque. The amount will vary a bit as you'll need to line up the nut with the hole in the axle for the cotter key.
Here's the online manual for reference:
https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/057en/index.htm
If not already, I recommend replacing inner and outer bearings as well as seals on both sides. Also use a grease with a drop point of at least 500. The drop point is the temperature at which the grease loses its viscosity and becomes liquid. I use Red Line synthetic CV-2 which is >800.
The manual doesn't specify how much grease to load in the cavity. My guess is the shape of the cavity encourages the grease to shift outward towards the bearings when the wheels are spinning so I apply liberal amounts in that area.
The process to tighten the bearings is 2 turns of the castle nut while turning the wheel, then back off almost completely then tighten to about 2 ft. lbs. of torque. The amount will vary a bit as you'll need to line up the nut with the hole in the axle for the cotter key.
Here's the online manual for reference:
https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/057en/index.htm
79 528i
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76 530i - Stored since 1992, can it be brought back to life?
86 944- 2023 project
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Thanks so much for the guidance. I had read the FAQ but I suppose was just looking for someone to second the motion, as they say. And thanks also for guidance on the grease. I am using an NLGI Grade 2 Lithium which is good for high temp. Also, I did replace everything. It started out as a simple break pad change. Rotor are new and I coated them with micron level stainless steel paint and even prepped and painted (Eastwood) shock tower and protection plates. Even coated the new calipers with the micron level SS paint. I think this is a hospital grade rebuild 