Front Suspension help

[Frederich]

1978 bmw 530i:
How can I determine if I have a bad shock or a bad strut bearing. I have a right front clunk over pot holes at low speeds. Shop has quoted me
$ 3500.00 to replace shocks, strut bearings, inner & outer control arm bushings. I have read up on this site and others on the clunk issue, but want
a way to diagnose bad shock from bad strut bearing putting aside all other suspension maladies. I don’t want to throw 3500.00 to fix everything
When I just have bad shock.
Bilstein B6-34-003268 prices range from 168.00 to 300.00 ea. Strut bearings @ 450.00 ea.
What’s fair price to pay for labor to replace shocks.
Might be to physical job to take on myself.
Any suggestions appreciated


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[John in the Glade]

Not an expert, but I’ve replaced shocks, struts, springs, wheel bearings and stuff.

Your question is diagnosing; I’ve had the pleasure of dealing with honest mechanics who would advise me what needed changing. You’ve already paid the price and got a HUGE quote. Depending on, that amount can exceed the value of the entire vehicle. In my case, I did my own work, and later had the garage inspect it.

In YOUR case, you should talk with the shop about what they can avoid replacing. For better profit, garages will quote replacing everything. Most will have a 100% markup meaning they get a part for $30 and charge you $60. The more parts, the merrier, . . . plus labor.

So, ask them for some help. Some will accommodate, others (depending on financial desperation) will not.

Sorry I can’t be any more help.
Good luck.

[Theotherotter]

I've experienced both - in both cases it was obvious to me what the problem was, though in only one case can I remember why (a bad shock - my Saab doesn't have struts). Try jacking up that corner and putting some force on the top of the spring/strut assembly - either moving it with your body weight or with a pry bar. If you can get any movement in the strut assembly, it's the upper mount.

[PatinaBeforePolish]

Did you locate and fix the issue?

[Frederich]

Have done nothing yet. Trying to source the strut bearings - possibly used ones - due to the price of new ones, before I start, in case it is bearings and not shocks. Have a shop that will replace just shocks, shocks included, for $ 1000.00. Bearings would be added to cost, labor would be same

I have jacked up car and put long lever under tire to bounce and doesn’t seem to be play at strut bearing, with friend monitoring for play. Hard to get much force though for a definite answer on bad bearing.
Will replace shocks as that’s my hunch but will look for bearings cheap as don’t want to get into job only to find bad strut bearing.

[PatinaBeforePolish]

It could be a ball joint or sway bar links. The bearings in the strut assembly seem pretty stout although they can dry out and get a bit crunchy. More likely is the rubber has deteriorated which requires replacement. Used can be tricky as softened rubber can look good but not be usable. Have you ridden as a passenger and listened to the clunk from a different perspective?

[Frederich]

No, I haven’t ridden as passenger to experience but clunk very evident as driver. Ball joints, sway bar seem to be o.k. although the first shop
priced in replacing all of suspension parts along with new strut bearings, shocks. But 3500.00 is lot even though I know it’s easier to do it all at one time. My guess is it’s shocks but ….
Appreciate all comments.

[Robert Bondi]

I was surprised a long time ago how much difference replacing the idler arm bushing made. It fixed the symptom of suspension creaking when navigating turns and uneven pavement within parking lots.