Things to do before i start the car?

Klassik · Post by **Klassik** » Fri Sep 10, 2010 9:06 am

Im getting ready to start a car that hasnt been turned over in about 10+ years. What are the first things you guys recommend i do? As far as i know, no proper storage methods was done to the car before it was parked. TIA

GripGreg · Post by **GripGreg** » Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:03 am

I'll chime in til the big dogs do. Check & maybe change all fluids. clean spark plugs, Before you remove the plugs get a can of compressed air from Office Depot & blow out the spark plug holes so no debris will get into the engine. Check the distributor cap for cracks and rotor for wear, Fresh gas.
I'm sure there's more. Good luck. Back under my small shade tree,,,,Greg

grumpsjr · Post by **grumpsjr** » Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:06 am

If you follow Greg's advice and remove the spark plugs, try turning the engine over by hand just to make sure it's not seized up from age. If it won't turn over, I've found that a little Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and a 4-foot breaker bar on the crankshaft nut will often free up an engine that won't turn over from sitting in storage.

Good luck!
Brian

On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 8:03 AM, GripGreg <gripgreg@aol.com (gripgreg@aol.com)> wrote:

I'll chime in til the big dogs do. Check & maybe change all fluids. clean spark plugs, Before you remove the plugs get a can of compressed air from Office Depot & blow out the spark plug holes so no debris will get into the engine. Check the distributor cap for cracks and rotor for wear, Fresh gas.
I'm sure there's more. Good luck. Back under my small shade tree,,,,Greg

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Pete K · Post by **Pete K** » Fri Sep 10, 2010 1:13 pm

I onced fired an old Ford of ours up after many years of sitting. The fuel lines had degraded and were leaking everywhere when the pump started.

Just my 2 cents.

cpalmer · Post by **cpalmer** » Fri Sep 10, 2010 2:08 pm

Hey,

I would do what the other guys said. Put some marvel in the gas tank too. Check the fuel lines, clean all the electrical connections from the battery, (especially the neg. line to the car from the battery), ones that go to the starter as well.

Good luck!

marc79euro645 · Post by **marc79euro645** » Wed Sep 15, 2010 12:19 am

add another inline gas filter just ahead of the injector rail,or you'll clog them with rust
good luck
marc

wkohler · Post by **wkohler** » Wed Sep 15, 2010 2:21 am

I wouldn't start anything until I cleaned out the fuel tank and lines and replaced the filter. Seriously. Your fuel probably could be used to refinish the wood in your car.

cpalmer · Post by **cpalmer** » Wed Sep 15, 2010 3:30 am

wkohler is right......If it's been sitting that long, and it wasn't stored properly, the tank probably needs to be cleaned and the fuel lines are also most likely torched and the fuel pump might be dead as well and an old filter. You should definitely check all that stuff and then move on from there. Clean all connections.....check cap and rotor and points/condensor, ( if you have them), and the spark plugs.

Do you have pictures? Was it stored outside or in? Miles?

I'd also go through the brakes and at least put new fluid in before I go around the block....

Cheers

thomas_m535i · Post by **thomas_m535i** » Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:19 am

I agree completely with the others about replacing the rubber fuel lines and filter. Also use compressed air to clean the lines. Indeed do check the tank as well. Redundant to mention that you should verify if there is enough oil in the car! Also check the air filter.

Remove the spark plugs and oil cap (or entire valve cover) and try to 'strategically' pour in a few drops (or a bit more) of oil just to make sure that no damage is done. Then crank it by hand, to see if nothing is seized. It will smoke a bit when started, but at least you're sure that there is oil where it's needed.

Afterwards, you could opt to put in new spark plugs, distributor and -cap. I would continue by removing the wire to the distributor. Then crank the car just for a few seconds on the starter motor (with the plugs and valve cover of course). The car won't start, but everything is now lubed. Then reconnect the wire from the coil to the distributor cap. Try to start the engine..

Afterwards, I would change all the fluids (i.e. oil, brake, coolant). Good luck and let us know what happened.

Klassik · Post by **Klassik** » Wed Sep 15, 2010 6:12 am

Hey guys, thanks for all the suggestions, looks like i have alot of prep before the key is turned!. What is the best way of cleaning out the fuel tank without taking it down? When the tank is emptied and filled with new, how can i flush out the fuel lines so that rust will not enter the injectors? Considering this is a very old car and it'll be a project, i would like to change all the wiring to new, does anybody know if painless wiring makes OEM wiring for these cars? i would like to gut the existing old wires with new modern wiring. Finally, any good online parts stores that have parts for these cars? Preferrably canadian or US. thanks!

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Sat Sep 18, 2010 10:11 pm

I don't disagree with one thing suggested. The more you do things to eliminate crud from being processed through the innards, the better off you'll be when it starts doing the fuel / air boom, boom thing.

When I replaced the in tank pump, I was surprised at the clear view of the tank interior through the top hole. Same thirty years, no visible crud floating around. Common sense working around gasoline and the explosive vapor, using a light and mirror will probably give you a peek to see if the tank suffered rust above the level of any fuel left in it.

The '79 I found sat outside for ten years in the worst rust climate possible. Body was gone. The engine, starter, pumps, AFM, wire harness, etc., etc., have all been fine. Surface crud, that's all.

I don't disagree with fuel filters, but they are so fine it didn't scare me to install one new one, run it for 500 and change it. Figured the super mesh on the in tank pump was one big hurdle to indicate crud, after that the big pump would make noise if eating rust chips. Didn't happen.

Replacing all the rubber fuel lines, injector lines, is flat mandatory. Thirty years is way dangerous with fuel on rubber.

The plastic box ends, with the teeny clips on the injectors and sensors, are brittle but not necessarily junk. It just takes patience, a small pointy thing to lift the clip gently out. The rest of the wiring harness has been fine for me, four sets. As per Lenny D., it's always the ends, especially grounds ( brown wires and the fat braided straps ) that get tired.

If you are intent on owning the car for awhile, fixing it to drive it, not just for Craig's List, I'd pull the head. Condensation can do bad things that only get worse if sanded off by combustion.

cpalmer · Post by **cpalmer** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 6:56 am

I think it all depends on what condition your gas tank is in. Was there old gas in it? Or was it dry? You really have to get a good look in there. Sometimes there fine, other times they need to be dropped and boiled. If there is rust and gunk in there...that's no good..

If it looks okay, change the filter and lines, (most likely), check the fuel pump....if you have an air compressor, blow out the lines and at least drop a smaller fuel filter on the engine side before the line hits the fuel rails, some Marvel Mystery oil, etc. The combination of what everyone has said will help. I say this having the fuel system be the first thing I went through on my Sophie a couple years ago. Right after I got her, pump went, and then I saw how bad the lines and the filter were. In my case, the tank was fine, but I did pull the in tank pump because there is another fine mesh screen filter in there and the guys on here told me too.

Everything was just 30 years old....rubber does die...so do pumps and filters after that long. Let us know what up!

PS- As for the wiring, that is a whole other ball game. Get her going and then re-post about that. You'll get some answers from other who've been there, done that.

GripGreg · Post by **GripGreg** » Sun Sep 19, 2010 12:14 pm

From the box on the left, go to 'Links' for online parts; add 'Arizonaautohaus.com' to your list. There might be more since the list was formed. Let us know about your progress. Isn't this board kool??