Guibo Replacement

tschultz · Post by **tschultz** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 5:55 pm

Hello everybody. I am an early E24 owner from mye28.com.

I have a 1980 635CSi with the E12 suspension and M90 motor. I got under the car the other day to find the flex disc guibo missing a chunk. I have th ecar up on jack stands and was able to start the process of removing the 6 bolts. My qyestions is what is the best way to go about removing and replacing this piece?

On my E28 I did this by dropping the exhaust up front to gain access, however there seems ot be more space to work with under this car.

Any helpful tips or methods would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

GripGreg · Post by **GripGreg** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:00 pm

I don't pretend to know much, but, I do know that you should not remove the band around the new guibo til it's bolted in.
Good Luck

tschultz · Post by **tschultz** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:08 pm

Thanks Greg, I had heard that while searching the forum.

It seemed like slow working trying to remove the bolts with the exhaust in place.

GripGreg · Post by **GripGreg** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:13 pm

Your Six looks good. I have an '82 Euro 635csi. Where are you located?
I wish I could post a pix, but,,,,,.

tschultz · Post by **tschultz** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 6:27 pm

Thanks

I live in Colorado. I am about an hour south of Denver at the moment finishing my last semester of school.

In regards to the car, it shows pretty good in pictures, but after being undearneath the car, there is a decent amount of rust I need to repair such as in the floors drains and undercarraige.
I have a bigcoupe thread with more pictures:
http://www.bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopi ... sc&start=0

Why can't you post pictures?
Here is a writeup if you haven't ever done it before:
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17319

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 12:38 am

http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/index.htm

Photos are kind of crunchy but the instructions work. Haynes says to remove the exhaust. I agree, but mostly because I replaced the guibo with the clutch.

Note three bolts face front, three face rear. I was naughty and reused the lock nuts, a long time ago. So far, no problems.

The big potential hassle is in the fact the guibo tends to flex, to not allow the bolt holes to line up. There is a factory band, squeezer tool, or one comes on most new units. Otherwise I used a BIG channel locks. Still *%#!

Haynes also notes pre-loading the center bearing on assembly, straight drive shaft, and holding the bolts in the guibo while tightening the nuts.

I have a '78 633 Euro, dead from salt rust in the floors, shock towers. Many posts over fifteen years, to conclude the stamped floors, shock towers cannot be repaired.

Blaise · Post by **Blaise** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 12:53 am

That steel band must be removed?

GripGreg · Post by **GripGreg** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 12:59 am

Yesss, Blaise! But only after it's torqued in place! You silly guy!

tschultz · Post by **tschultz** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:04 am

Thanks for the tip about that band. I managed to get the old one out by dropping the rear section of the exhaust off the hangers and I have enough space to work since there is no Cat. or anything in the way.

Have the old one out, just waiting on the part.

Honestly not a very difficult job (so far). I will be sure to realign the driveshaft properly, preload the centerbearing, and align the guibo/flange arms with arrows.

GripGreg · Post by **GripGreg** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:22 am

Don't forget, three heads one way & three heads the other way. I guess that evenly distributes the torque??
Seems like every other. Remember how it came out.

tschultz · Post by **tschultz** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 12:44 am

GripGreg wrote:Don't forget, three heads one way & three heads the other way. I guess that evenly distributes the torque??
Seems like every other. Remember how it came out.

Yep-- unfortunately how I took them out, not all were situated this way. that could possibly be part of why it failed.
but thanks for the tip Greg!

GripGreg · Post by **GripGreg** » Mon Jan 16, 2012 1:18 am

That tip came from T.Hanson, (Tom) I just reminded you of it.

neetyrom · Post by **neetyrom** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 2:39 pm

when it comes to balancing the guibo what method[s] did you use?

GripGreg · Post by **GripGreg** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:58 pm

Okay.
The guibo has a band on it from the factory: DO NOT remove it till it's in place & torqued down!!
Find which way the arrows on the guibo point; there are two ways. I'll say one way & the rest will be obvious.
The arrows alternate pointing directions, as in every other.
The small end of the first arrow needs to butt against the driveshaft with the bolt entering from the driveshaft end.
The next one needs to point & butt against the tranny end, with the bolt entering from the tranny side.
Alternate all around & torque correctly, then & only then remove the band.
If it isn't installed this way, people have said the guibo may last only 2,000 miles?
Good luck,,,,Greg

CabbageFumes · Post by **CabbageFumes** » Sun Apr 12, 2015 2:26 pm

To clarify, the arrows on the flex joint point to where the flanges on either side touch the joint, not the space between the flange.