No Start - Click but starter does not get the signal

[riles]

Out of the blue my 1979 528i stopped starting (4 speed manual).
1. Swapped in a new starter cable and cleaned all of the connections
no go
2. Found a rebuilt starter for a good deal so went for it
no go
3. On the recommendation of my mechanic, get out the volt meter and check the signal wire to the starter
he was right.. there is no power going to the signal wire when the key is turned. I get the "click", but clearly something is wrong.
I cannot find anything showing that there is a relay for manual transmissions.. I can see the yellow black cable going from the starter, looks like it goes to the fuse box, then I assume follows the wiring harness and in under the dash.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to troubleshoot and fix it from here?

I installed a bypass wire and a little push button so that I can get her started from inside the car, but would like to fix it correctly. Advise would be greatly appreciated!

[Falkenberg]

If you have a a wiring diagram, the diagnose plug in the fuse box has a pin (can't recall which one now) where you can test the starter signal. Using a voltmeter, at least you know if things between fuse box and ignition are working. And using an Ohmmeter, you can check from there conductivity between fuse box and the spade connector on the starter.

E12 have a common issue with the ignition switch that affects starting fyi.

[riles]

If you have a a wiring diagram, the diagnose plug in the fuse box has a pin (can't recall which one now) where you can test the starter signal. Using a voltmeter, at least you know if things between fuse box and ignition are working. And using an Ohmmeter, you can check from there conductivity between fuse box and the spade connector on the starter.

E12 have a common issue with the ignition switch that affects starting fyi.

Thank you for that info. I will look at the wiring diagram for that.. I did not remember seeing it there but with that more specific direction I'm more likely to find it
So do you see any issue then with using a bypass flick switch for this? I don't mind using the switch if it is a solution to a common problem. It is just a wire spliced into the black/yellow wire on the starter and then run up through into my dash and I drilled out a hole in a false button on the left next to the lights and it works fine wired to the 12v constant.

[Mike W.]

I'd test, but verify, the problem is the ignition switch, and then replace it if is the problem. The switch is fairly easy to replace, the lock much less so. You can run a bypass and the steering wheel will remained locked unless you use the key, but I wouldn't. No biggie either way though.

[riles]

For the time being, I added a fuse to be safe and have been using a flick switch connected to the starter and I just turn the key into the running position and then flick it on until she revs to life then flick it off.
Bigger fish to fry now... see new post...