Starts when I pull the dash instrument cluster

lazytv · Post by **lazytv** » Fri Aug 26, 2016 11:07 pm

Umm... im starting to lose my mind. The car won't start (no spark) and then I pull the dash instrument cluster out and she starts up and runs. At first it I thought it was a coincidence then put the cluster back in for it not to start again until I pulled it forward or out.

Is this a thing? Did I not reattach the leads back to their corresponding places (I did remove the cluster to fix the odometer as the gear had fallen out of place)? Or is there a short or ground that is happening?

Now the cluster is loose and when I start the car it immediately starts and proceeds to rev very high forcing me to shut the engine off.

Thx in advance.

Qwodracer · Post by **Qwodracer** » Sat Aug 27, 2016 7:05 am

I had a short to ground in my tachometer, I just left it unhooked and taped off the leads and the car starts fine now. But no tachometer. I'm assuming you would have to take the tach apart to identify and solve the problem.

I have an automatic.. So not having a tach isn't a big deal... I haven't really investigated further.

I think on mine.. The plastic "button" that holds the spades sticking out the back is loose, and allows the spade to contact the metal backing plate... (Which is grounded) so maybe crazy glue might hold the "button" in the center of its bore? "Button" -> Hard Plastic Grommet

lazytv · Post by **lazytv** » Sat Aug 27, 2016 11:26 am

Mine is automatic too. Seems my spades going to the tach are loose too. Any explanation on why is revs so high as soon as I start the car.. this is a recent thing.

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Sat Aug 27, 2016 12:14 pm

Wow, that rates as one of the craziest failures I have ever heard of! It makes sense, short out the tach and it stops running.

Higher revving, look for leaks first.

lazytv · Post by **lazytv** » Sat Aug 27, 2016 7:59 pm

All new vacuum hoses and all snug.

The tachometer doesn't move and I have a feeling it has something to do with the high rev as soon as the engine starts.

Qwodracer · Post by **Qwodracer** » Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:02 pm

lazytv wrote:All new vacuum hoses and all snug.

The tachometer doesn't move and I have a feeling it has something to do with the high rev as soon as the engine starts.

Mine was revving out too.. Lol but was fine without the tach unhooked.. I thought I was crazy, cause it didn't really make sense to me.. Haha

Only thought I have is when the tach signal is 0 the Ecu opens the Idle Air Controller full and that's why it revs right out.

So when you remove the short to ground on the signal wire the Ecu can read it again and operate the iac accordingly.

lazytv · Post by **lazytv** » Sun Aug 28, 2016 6:43 am

Mine revs high with or without the tach. This seems to be a game of wack a mole and quite frankly I've grown tired of it.

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Sun Aug 28, 2016 11:45 am

Besides the tach wires there are a few connectors you could try to disconnect one at a time to isolate it by connector. Make sure the accelerator cable assembly is not somehow getting bound up by wires or the speedo cable

I had a run with the CS series for a bunch of years, wish I still had one.

lazytv · Post by **lazytv** » Sun Aug 28, 2016 12:05 pm

Ron,

I checked the accelerator cables.

Don't know why I'm bothering with this e12 as I have a perfectly good, running e9 in my garage. Was hoping to have this as a daily driver but my confidence has been shaken and I don't have the faith this is a daily driver now.

On a positive note.. the gas gauge works now.

T.Hanson · Post by **T.Hanson** » Mon Aug 29, 2016 4:58 am

See, " Tracing battery draw," July 2nd post. After the member's helpful hints I Google searched the topic to find suitable instructions, that made sense to me, on connecting a multi-meter, pulling fuses, and checking the readings.

Summary, it was an exercise in checking, cleaning, polishing, all (brown) ground wire connectors, including the bolts. Those are big for causing problems. After that, the same picky pulling, inspecting, cleaning fuses, relays. After that, if no joy fixing the problem, checking the drat wires for cracks, etc.

My aversion to wiring bundles coupled with zero knowledge made it an exercise in stubborn patience, but we won. Meaning I don't know which particular ground, connector, wire was the the specific cause of the battery draw, it just stopped drawing. Two months ago. To be pronounced fixed ?

If this helps...

RonDwyer · Post by **RonDwyer** » Tue Aug 30, 2016 10:58 pm

It isn't an E9 E12 conundrum, it is a mystery fault that meas the difference between a CS or an E12 as a daily driver...

Engine RPM is a function of the position of the throttle plate. I'd pull out the cluster and start looking for chafed harnesses. I replaced my wiper harness grommet with electrical panel stuff last weekend. Now it looks like a PLC control panel for a conveyor system.