replace ignition key

[DMS]

I got me another E12 last week and there are a few issues. One of them is that the starter doesn't work when I turn the key. The previous owner mounted a starter button to work around the problem but I don't like work arounds but rather solve the problems the right way. So I traced down the problem to the ignition key thingy.

When rotated to the starter position it doesn't make contact as it should. The wires all the way up to the back of the ignition are is good shape so it seems to be in the ignition itself however I don't know how to remove it.

I have another E12 with functioning ignition so I'd like to exchange it and also exchange the key lock if possible. Can some one point me in the right direction how I can remove the ignition?

Thanks in advance,
Jan

[Mike W.]

There are two very different parts that work together, but are individually replaceable, the switch and the lock. The switch, which I suspect is what you have a problem with, is held in place by a small slotted screw that's easily accessed once you remove the cover off the bottom of the steering column. It might fight a little bit on the way out, but it's not too bad. Put a dab of grease in the replacement where the ignition lock meets up with it, and just work it in.

The ignition lock is a pain and comes out from the other direction. Doable, but a pain.

[DMS]

There are two very different parts that work together, but are individually replaceable, the switch and the lock. The switch, which I suspect is what you have a problem with, is held in place by a small slotted screw that's easily accessed once you remove the cover off the bottom of the steering column. It might fight a little bit on the way out, but it's not too bad. Put a dab of grease in the replacement where the ignition lock meets up with it, and just work it in.

The ignition lock is a pain and comes out from the other direction. Doable, but a pain.

Agreed it's the switch where the problem is. There is a small screw there but it has no meat to unscrew it. I'll see what I can do. I'll post a picture otherwise.

Thanks!

[DMS]

Hmm it turns out that the switch isn't broken at all. The key just can't turn wide enough to actuate the starter switch. The switch is far enough in and it rotates but just not far enough.

Any thoughts??

[Mike W.]

Hmm it turns out that the switch isn't broken at all. The key just can't turn wide enough to actuate the starter switch. The switch is far enough in and it rotates but just not far enough.

Any thoughts??

It might still be the switch. The recess in it where the drive part of the lock goes can wear to the point where it doesn't turn far enough. Kind of happened to me one time, but after I R and R'd it, and greased it, full function returned. But that junction between the switch and the lock can wear. Maybe give the lock a little shot of Triflow too, to ensure it is moving freely. NOT WD40 or Liquid Wrench, Triflow or Superlube.

[thomas_m535i]

My first post on the new Firstfives forum. Works much better! My compliments.

**on topic **
I more or less have a related problem: when my E12 was still operational, the starter motor kept on cranking for a couple of more seconds when I'd already returned the key to 'normal' position.

I managed to find a new and complete set of E12 locks. In addition, I'm actually 'fully' restoring my E12 right now, so this would be the best moment to fix these kind of things.

So I would also like to know how to replace the steering lock. Any suggestions on how to tackle this problem? It looks like the small plate above the lock (check the 2nd picture) should be drilled out?? If so, how can it be fixed afterwards?

I've took some pictures of the situation. Might be helpful to DMS' situation as well. Thanks!!

[DMS]

Hmm it turns out that the switch isn't broken at all. The key just can't turn wide enough to actuate the starter switch. The switch is far enough in and it rotates but just not far enough.

Any thoughts??

It might still be the switch. The recess in it where the drive part of the lock goes can wear to the point where it doesn't turn far enough. Kind of happened to me one time, but after I R and R'd it, and greased it, full function returned. But that junction between the switch and the lock can wear. Maybe give the lock a little shot of Triflow too, to ensure it is moving freely. NOT WD40 or Liquid Wrench, Triflow or Superlube.

I tried two switches from both my cars, but neither work in the new E12. Atleast one works in my first E12. Both witches I can turn manually. I'll take a look if I can losen something up so I can turn the lock further. Thanks for the advise!

The sooner I get this to work, the soon I can continue merging both E12's .

Thomas, it seems like you already got the lock out at the last picture?

Regards,
Jan

[thomas_m535i]

I tried two switches from both my cars, but neither work in the new E12. Atleast one works in my first E12. Both witches I can turn manually. I'll take a look if I can losen something up so I can turn the lock further. Thanks for the advise!

The sooner I get this to work, the soon I can continue merging both E12's .

Thomas, it seems like you already got the lock out at the last picture?

Regards,
Jan

Hi Jan, no it is actually the new lock. Just took the picture to point out what I mean.

Thomas

[DMS]

Ah zoiets dacht ik al .

Ok I cleaned the lock really good and got it to work partially. It still doesn't work all the time. Let's say 9 out of 10 it works but I don't want to get stranded 1 out of 10 times .

Anyway I replaced the entire steering collom from what's now turning into a parts car. This also solved another issue I had: When I turned on my left blinker the left high beam would also burn. So my next question is the same as Thomas':

How do I exchange the lock itself as I have now two different keys for the car?

Regards,
Jan