Hey guys, the factory 4-speed transmission in my '79 6er isn't shifting nearly as smooth as it should, in fact it's gotten noticeably harder to shift into 1st and 2nd from a dead stop and I'm scraping gears every time I need reverse. What should I be looking for??
Also, what manual transmission fluid are you using in these cars - I've heard about everything from Automatic Transmission Fluid to Redline's MTL. What works best in our cars?
Thanks,
Bob G
e12 based 633 - manual tranny question
e12 based 633 - manual tranny question
e12 based '79 6er
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
Assuming the clutch is in good shape, operating properly.
Owner's manual says to always depress clutch, shift into any forward gear before putting the lever in reverse. I'm guessing it has something to do with stopping the synchos spinning, but it works for stopping the gears grinding.
You can buy 80-90 gear oil in a bottle, that works with a plastic pumper. Get the hex socket to fit the side plug, bottom drain plug. ( Bav Auto, BMP design for size ). Full is when the oil starts draining over the side fill hole.
See realoem.com for tranny bushings. You do have to drop the exhaust.
Bleed clutch slave if the pedal isn't doing its thing up near the top.
Red Line and synthetic oils maybe (opinions) work to shift easier, and they can also leak easier around old gaskets and seals.
Besides jacking, safely setting the car on stands high enough to operate under there, none of this stuff is brain hard. Check FAQ's, or Google Search, or ask anything here.
If you have the desire, patience, and another car to use to avoid getting angry, fixing these things yourself is fun and not very spendy for most things.
Owner's manual says to always depress clutch, shift into any forward gear before putting the lever in reverse. I'm guessing it has something to do with stopping the synchos spinning, but it works for stopping the gears grinding.
You can buy 80-90 gear oil in a bottle, that works with a plastic pumper. Get the hex socket to fit the side plug, bottom drain plug. ( Bav Auto, BMP design for size ). Full is when the oil starts draining over the side fill hole.
See realoem.com for tranny bushings. You do have to drop the exhaust.
Bleed clutch slave if the pedal isn't doing its thing up near the top.
Red Line and synthetic oils maybe (opinions) work to shift easier, and they can also leak easier around old gaskets and seals.
Besides jacking, safely setting the car on stands high enough to operate under there, none of this stuff is brain hard. Check FAQ's, or Google Search, or ask anything here.
If you have the desire, patience, and another car to use to avoid getting angry, fixing these things yourself is fun and not very spendy for most things.
I'm wondering if your clutch is fully disengaging. First and even second in cold weather can be a problem, especially if the oil is incorrect and regular gear oil, but if reverse is grinding it suggests things might still be turning in the transmission. Where does the clutch pedal disengage and is there any creep when you're stopped in gear with your foot off the brake?
If the clutch isn't the problem, yes, go ahead and change the oil. I used to be a fan of Redline MTL, but after 2 different transmissions developed noisy bearings after use of it I'm not so sure anymore. Now it might have just been high miles, even with good lube bearings don't last forever, but it was enough to make me aprehensive. BMW spec's a GL4 oil which is hard to find, it's a non hypoid gear oil, or motor oil. I had a Bav I used to run 50WT in before I could find better alternatives and it was still in good shape when it was totaled with ~250K on it. ATF is spec'd for some later manuals, but I think it's too thin and not a good enough lube for something it's not originally specified for, I'd use a thick motor oil instead.
If the clutch isn't the problem, yes, go ahead and change the oil. I used to be a fan of Redline MTL, but after 2 different transmissions developed noisy bearings after use of it I'm not so sure anymore. Now it might have just been high miles, even with good lube bearings don't last forever, but it was enough to make me aprehensive. BMW spec's a GL4 oil which is hard to find, it's a non hypoid gear oil, or motor oil. I had a Bav I used to run 50WT in before I could find better alternatives and it was still in good shape when it was totaled with ~250K on it. ATF is spec'd for some later manuals, but I think it's too thin and not a good enough lube for something it's not originally specified for, I'd use a thick motor oil instead.
Mike W.
1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
tranny question on my '79 6er
Thanks Tom n Mike for that quick reply - couple of things I need to add that might help with answers - I drove the '79 this morning (I'm locked out of my '85 DD, that's another problem) and cannot get into any gear with the car running. I can cut the motor off and put it into any gear, no problem - when the car warms up after driving awhile, I can shift through the gears with a little difficulty....and yeah Mike, she's creeping a little bit in first and reverse. Is this sounding more like a clutch related problem, maybe release or throw-out bearing? I've never been into the clutch on any of these cars, but there was a time when I had never done an oil change either - now I can change oil without getting it smeared from one end of me to the other.
Bob
Bob
e12 based '79 6er
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
Bob, check please, the slave clutch cylinder pump, located at the gearox, for leak. Check also the fluid level (clutch) - if the level is OK - possibly the slave clutch pump is worn. The most common problem is this pump, when you can change the gears, when the engine is not started and very difficult or even no possibility to change any gear with engine running.
Alexander
Alexander
It's possible it's the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft, but more likely a clutch hydraulic problem not fully releasing the clutch. The rule of thumb which is almost always right is if it's using fluid, it's the slave. If it's not using fluid it's the master. Occasionally it's even the rubber hose between the two, and many like to replace the slave and master at the same time with a few even doing the rubber line at the same time too.
Bleeding is the trickiest part, you pump the slave with the bleeder screw closed to do that then pump it up at the pedal, rather unlike bleeding brakes. Otherwise it's fairly straightforward tho the master can be a bit difficult to get to.
Bleeding is the trickiest part, you pump the slave with the bleeder screw closed to do that then pump it up at the pedal, rather unlike bleeding brakes. Otherwise it's fairly straightforward tho the master can be a bit difficult to get to.
Mike W.
1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
1980 528i, 3.5 euro, 5 speed conversion
1981 528i, 3.6, Recaros and more. Project
1998 328is, quick and efficient, but not satisfying
2000 528iit, Vacation mobile/wife's grocery getter
Tranny preblem - e12 based 633
Problem solved!! Ya just don't know what ya don't know! It was the clutch slave cylinder leaking brake fluid, I topped it off, put a bandaid on it and she's shifting just like she's supposed to - I'll have to order a part tomorrow for a permanent fix, but at least I know where the problem is....or was. I was gettin all stressed out about having to get into the clutch or transmission - what a relief - I really appreciate the help from this group. Now to try and get my '85 unlocked - it's something all the time.
Thank you!
Bob
Thank you!
Bob
e12 based '79 6er
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
bgriff,
I notice that you live in N. Carolina. How's the weather?
I'm having the same lock-related problem. I had to call AAA to use their bar to sorta break in so I could drive to the other side of the street because of the street sweeper. I believe it's because of the colder weather. I'm guessing the lubrication has stiffened up because of it.
I mentioned this to a friend at the 'stealership' & he suggested using wheel bearing grease as opposed to the spray lithium grease mentioned on this website, which I did to this car about two years ago, after hopefully cleaning the joints with WD-40.
Just a thought,,,,Greg
Ps- You DO belong to AAA, huh?? In my opinion, anyone with an older car
should belong to AAA!
I notice that you live in N. Carolina. How's the weather?
I'm having the same lock-related problem. I had to call AAA to use their bar to sorta break in so I could drive to the other side of the street because of the street sweeper. I believe it's because of the colder weather. I'm guessing the lubrication has stiffened up because of it.
I mentioned this to a friend at the 'stealership' & he suggested using wheel bearing grease as opposed to the spray lithium grease mentioned on this website, which I did to this car about two years ago, after hopefully cleaning the joints with WD-40.
Just a thought,,,,Greg
Ps- You DO belong to AAA, huh?? In my opinion, anyone with an older car
should belong to AAA!
tranny question on my '79 6er
Hey Greg, I'm right on the coast in SE North Carolina and everyone I know has their eye on the Weather Channel tonight, we're supposed to get snow early in the AM, changing to sleet later in the day and lasting into Monday night - temp is at 23 right now, we'll have a high of around 32 tomorrow....I love it. I'm a cold weather kind of guy stuck in a normally hot and humid part of the world - this is home though.
No, I'm not an AAA member, but even if I was, I'm not sure they could help with this locked door problem om my '85 635 without screwin something up. My drivers side door simply will not unlock, either with the key or from inside the car. I can unlock the car for just a second, except for the drivers door, from the trunk or passenger side and immediately everything locks back - I'm afraid I'll break the key if I put too much pressure on trying to turn the drivers door lock so I've sprayed a load of white lithium grease into the key hole, hoping to free up the lock....no luck yet. I can get into the passenger side by pulling the door handle as I turn the key in the passenger door, so I'm able to get in and roll the drivers window down or start the car, but just can't get the drivers door to unlock - I have to open the door somehow to be able to get the inside panel off to see what the problem is....pretty screwy, huh?
Bob
No, I'm not an AAA member, but even if I was, I'm not sure they could help with this locked door problem om my '85 635 without screwin something up. My drivers side door simply will not unlock, either with the key or from inside the car. I can unlock the car for just a second, except for the drivers door, from the trunk or passenger side and immediately everything locks back - I'm afraid I'll break the key if I put too much pressure on trying to turn the drivers door lock so I've sprayed a load of white lithium grease into the key hole, hoping to free up the lock....no luck yet. I can get into the passenger side by pulling the door handle as I turn the key in the passenger door, so I'm able to get in and roll the drivers window down or start the car, but just can't get the drivers door to unlock - I have to open the door somehow to be able to get the inside panel off to see what the problem is....pretty screwy, huh?
Bob
e12 based '79 6er
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
'85 6er 5sp
'85 6er Auto
About the lock problem: Does the 635 have a lock motor on the driver's door? I just fixed a stuck lock issue on my '81 e12, the culprit was a seized lock motor.
My experience: First my central locking stopped working. No problem, I got used to unlocking doors manually. A few months later one my rear doors wouldn't unlock. I put off fixing it since the other door worked fine. A few more months pass and the other door decided to not unlock. Uh-oh. Having people climb in and out of the back via the front was fun…once, it was time to fix it.
I was prepared to perform a difficult and damaging procedure (taking out the rear seat through a front door and destroying the door panel to get at the lock mechanism). As a last-ditch effort I pulled up the lock knob as far as I could and held it there while I tried the door handle. Miraculously, the door opened. I removed the door panel and discovered that a seized lock motor was preventing the knob from moving up. It was easy to pop the linkage off the motor and now all is well.
Hope this helps.
--Bill
My experience: First my central locking stopped working. No problem, I got used to unlocking doors manually. A few months later one my rear doors wouldn't unlock. I put off fixing it since the other door worked fine. A few more months pass and the other door decided to not unlock. Uh-oh. Having people climb in and out of the back via the front was fun…once, it was time to fix it.
I was prepared to perform a difficult and damaging procedure (taking out the rear seat through a front door and destroying the door panel to get at the lock mechanism). As a last-ditch effort I pulled up the lock knob as far as I could and held it there while I tried the door handle. Miraculously, the door opened. I removed the door panel and discovered that a seized lock motor was preventing the knob from moving up. It was easy to pop the linkage off the motor and now all is well.
Hope this helps.
--Bill